fe 290 Side cover gasket replacement / oil leak

[nwocart]

After doing some searching I am fairly certain that my cart has a leak in the side gasket near the dipstick tube. I'm going to pull the motor to fix it, but I have a couple questions:


1. From the posts i have read, they said I shouldn't use a factory gasket and should use a thicker paper gasket. Is there a specific aftermarket brand to look for? i am seeing OEM part # 1016446 "Gasket - Crankcase Cover" I have also read I should replace the seal behind the drive clutch. I think that this is "1016567 - SEAL- CRANK SHAFT"

reference: https://golfcartpartsdirect.com/Category/401



2. What is going to fall apart when I take the cover off? I ran into a similar situation with my rear end where I didn't put it back together correctly and had to open it back up because some stuff moved. Trying to avoid that, and I plan on setting motor on its side with cover facing up.



3. Is there anything else I should be checking before/after i have the motor out. I just checked compression a couple weeks ago and I believe it was at 130. Will double check this evening to confirm. Planned on making sure the valves are correctly set - I have read they should be at .005" on both intake and exhaust.



Any other tips, tricks, etc welcome. I have motor to the point where once I check compression i can start disconnecting everything and pulling it out. Body is already off, etc.

[Aggiesdm]

Originally Posted by nwocart

After doing some searching I am fairly certain that my cart has a leak in the side gasket near the dipstick tube. I'm going to pull the motor to fix it, but I have a couple questions:


1. From the posts i have read, they said I shouldn't use a factory gasket and should use a thicker paper gasket. Is there a specific aftermarket brand to look for? i am seeing OEM part # 1016446 "Gasket - Crankcase Cover" I have also read I should replace the seal behind the drive clutch. I think that this is "1016567 - SEAL- CRANK SHAFT"

reference: https://golfcartpartsdirect.com/Category/401



2. What is going to fall apart when I take the cover off? I ran into a similar situation with my rear end where I didn't put it back together correctly and had to open it back up because some stuff moved. Trying to avoid that, and I plan on setting motor on its side with cover facing up.



3. Is there anything else I should be checking before/after i have the motor out. I just checked compression a couple weeks ago and I believe it was at 130. Will double check this evening to confirm. Planned on making sure the valves are correctly set - I have read they should be at .005" on both intake and exhaust.



Any other tips, tricks, etc welcome. I have motor to the point where once I check compression i can start disconnecting everything and pulling it out. Body is already off, etc.

I recently rebuilt my FE350 with all OEM parts, so I can't answer #1 for you, but if you're going to have the engine on a bench with the cover (clutch side) facing up, there shouldn't be anything that "falls out" on you. Once you loosen the cover, everything is pretty secured in place there. I'd replace the drive shaft seal, the main case gasket (as mentioned in #1) and your dipstick o-ring. All of those things can leak on you and are pretty easy to swap if you have the engine out.

If your compression is that good, I don't think you need to mess with the rings or anything. So, unless you're experiencing some other leak, I'd replace those things and bolt everything back up (to torque spec) and you should be good to go.


Caution...if your cam-shaft happens to come out or moves out of position, make sure its timed correctly (match 2 timing dots) and make sure its seats properly back into the case-side which drives the oil pump. The end of the cam shaft has a litte notch that has to mate with the oil pump rotor. If they aren't mated correctly, bad things can happen.

One obvious thing to do is to make sure both your case and the side cover surfaces are really clean prior to installing the new gasket. I had areas where it was really cooked on and took a combo of a razor blade, scotch bright and a lot of muscle to get it cleaned up.

Lastly remember that you're working with aluminum and its easily damaged with excessive force. Be careful loosening the case. Try not to pry it if you can avoid it.

CP241 has a great thread on FE290 rebuild in the sticky area of this forum. Check it out and it'll give you a lot of great pics and info. https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=160310

[CP241]

Double check compression again. 130 is low. Should be in the 160-170 range. My 1994 DS is at 165

If it is 130 then I’d plan on rings as well. Should be fine with just a quick hone of the cylinder to deglaze it and new rings for a freshening and be all set. Not a difficult job if you take your time.

I’ve only ever used OEM gaskets. Check the thread he linked above, I put all the fe290 part numbers in that thread so you can hit up partzilla.

When you remove the side cover the bearing can kinda hang up in the cover. You can carefully pry gently back and forth on opposing sides and sorta “walk” it off. It’s not pressed in tightly so it doesn’t really pose a problem when you reinstall the cover.

I’d use a wire wheel in a die grinder or a drill to gently “buff” off the old gasket material from both the case side and the cover side. It’ll make a mess but it’s the most efficient way to remove it. Roloc discs work even better but you have to be careful with those as they can dig into the aluminum easily

[nwocart]

Couldn't remember what my compression was when i tested it a couple weeks ago, but I re tested last night. Came out to 155 at the highest. So thats a plus. (I believe the pic leaked down a touch when I went to get my phone to take a pic and I didn't re pressurize it)

I have attached a couple pics of where it appears (I think) to be leaking out of the motor.


I'm not sure whos thread it was but when I was searching I found a thread that said the oem gaskets were too thin of paper. Doesnt matter to me I will just call revolution and get some parts ordered if OEM is fine

[nwocart]

Originally Posted by Aggiesdm

there shouldn't be anything that "falls out" on you. Once you loosen the cover, everything is pretty secured in place there.

.......

Caution...if your cam-shaft happens to come out or moves out of position, make sure its timed correctly (match 2 timing dots) and make sure its seats properly back into the case-side which drives the oil pump. The end of the cam shaft has a litte notch that has to mate with the oil pump rotor. If they aren't mated correctly, bad things can happen.

thats what I am afraid of

Originally Posted by Aggiesdm

If your compression is that good, I don't think you need to mess with the rings or anything. So, unless you're experiencing some other leak, I'd replace those things and bolt everything back up (to torque spec) and you should be good to go.

One obvious thing to do is to make sure both your case and the side cover surfaces are really clean prior to installing the new gasket. I had areas where it was really cooked on and took a combo of a razor blade, scotch bright and a lot of muscle to get it cleaned up.

Lastly remember that you're working with aluminum and its easily damaged with excessive force. Be careful loosening the case. Try not to pry it if you can avoid it.

Have done lots of gaskets, hoping I can use die grinder with the little brillo pad looking things lightly on whatever the razor blade wont take off

[Fairtax4me]

Aftermarket paper gaskets are junk. I've had the best luck with factory gaskets. Yes, they fail after 15 years. Paper gaskets fail in 6 months. People have tricks like, putting rtv or other sealant on them, and they still fall apart. The OE gasket needs nothing but a clean surface.

Torque spec is the most important part. If the bolts are under-torqued the gasket will fail regardless of what you use.

[nwocart]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Aftermarket paper gaskets are junk. I've had the best luck with factory gaskets. Yes, they fail after 15 years. Paper gaskets fail in 6 months. People have tricks like, putting rtv or other sealant on them, and they still fall apart. The OE gasket needs nothing but a clean surface.

Torque spec is the most important part. If the bolts are under-torqued the gasket will fail regardless of what you use.

I read in a service manual I found for a later year FE 290 that they should be 23 ft lbs.


Not sure if anybody can confirm that but thats what I planned on using.

Just waiting on clutch tool to show up (spare me the "go buy a bolt and use a piece of rod" comments everybody) which should be today or tomorrow and my gaskets to show up.

[nwocart]

Cover came off pretty easily, I have some sanding/shining to do on the shaft and a little bit of gasket to clean up yet. Gasket failure was easy enough to find once I had the side cover off.

Clutch tool worked good - originally tried to use ratchet and tap the clutch with a rubber mallet but eventually got impatient and a quick jolt with the impact it popped right off. Same with the clutch retainer bolt.

Not sure what timing dots I need to check on my cam, but I don't think anything moved.

[CP241]

There’s a little dot on the camshaft gear and another one on the crankshaft gear. The crankshaft one is hidden underneath the bearing.

Sometimes that bearing stays in the side cover and sometimes it sticks to the crankshaft.

Also while you’re in there, at the very bottom there are 2 gold 10mm bolts holding the oil screen on. I’d take that out and give it a quick cleaning while you’re in there. Just hose it with some brake cleaner and slide it back in.

[nwocart]

Talked to Revolution and the Crank seal is backordered from club car, going to look on ebay next. he gave me a size, might try to see if napa can match one after work if I take it in if i cant find one on ebay