G2 Driving me crazy

[yelilly]

I am working on a G2 for a friend at our campground. Started out that the brushes were bad ordered new brushes put them in, then tried to start it and it would run now but very rough. It wont run enough to move out of its tracks. Misses real bad. Took the coil off and checked the resistance the way the book says, seems to be bad. Put new coil on same thing. Have taken the carb off an cleaned with carb cleaner and blew it out with compressed air. Try to adjust the mixture screw nothing. I am already bald on top don't want to pull the sides out now, but it is driving me crazy. Please some of you more knowledgeable than me chime in, I will try anything. One other thing, when I checked the new coil it showed out of specs also, I did it like the book says but it shows bad to. How reliable is the coil test anyway, I have seen some say you cant check it reliably with ohm meter some say you can?

PS I forgot to add this but I put a wire from the neg side of the batt. to the valve cover bolt when I tried to crank it the insulation started melting it was a 12 gauge wire. When I quit cranking it stopped smoking the wire.

Thanks for your help Earl

[crash12888]

Have you done the basics like valve adjustment?
There is a wire that runs from the cart harness to the motor, it is used to kill the coil when the pedal is released. disconnect it to determine if it is engine or cart electrical issue.
Try removing the wire from the low oil sensor.
Also try a heavy gauge jumper from an engine bolt (ground) to the neg side of the battery.
Just some things to try........

Any more details on when it started?

[Flintrock]

also search on same topic from smallblock450sl, I think there is a small ground wire in the harness that can go bad, cause that problem....

[yelilly]

I will check the valves but it seems like a wiring issue to me the wiring is crazy on this cart. ( been cut on a lot) Sorry crash I was editing when you posted very slow typer. I will check on the thing you suggested this weekend. Thanks

[yelilly]

I forgot to add this but I put a wire from the neg side of the batt. to the valve cover bolt when I tried to crank it the insulation started melting it was a 12 gauge wire. When I quit cranking it stopped smoking the wire.

[crash12888]

If you have a bad ground battery cable, or frame to engine cable, as in loose or corroded connection, or even left disconnected, you were putting a lot of amps through the 12ga jumper and could cause the heat and melting. Check both of them.
Retry that idea with one side of a set of jumper cables and see what happens.
If it continues I believe you need to revisit the starter/gen and check or have it checked for a short.

[yelilly]

I have the gen off now, have it with me exactly what am I looking for.

[DOOmsman]

Originally Posted by crash12888

If you have a bad ground battery cable, or frame to engine cable, as in loose or corroded connection, or even left disconnected, you were putting a lot of amps through the 12ga jumper and could cause the heat and melting. Check both of them.
Retry that idea with one side of a set of jumper cables and see what happens.
If it continues I believe you need to revisit the starter/gen and check or have it checked for a short.

I think your right about the main ground cable.

[crash12888]

Here Earl, I just stoled this from Dave. It might help but check grounds first. Did ya check them yet?

Only a few tests for a starter/generator. You will need a volt meter. Disassemble the starter/generator . First test, red and green wires (charging circuit) should read 5 ohms or close. Second test, check for continuity between the 2 feild bolts (f1 and f2), there should be continuity. Now take off one test lead and touch the steel feild case (in several places) there should be no continuity, if so you have a shorted feild coil assy. Third, test for continuity between the (a1 and a2) studs to the brushes, should have continuity,then take one lead off and check to see if the there is a short to the metal end plate, should be no continuity. Last, clean the armature comutator with emery cloth ( if you see any "burnt/pitting" between the comutator segments, the armature is bad), check for continuity between all the comutator segments then check for countinuity from the comutator segments to the armature shaft, there sould be none, or its shorted. Sounds like alot of work? Will only take minutes. Good luck Dave

[iowamike]

My cart died this weekend in mid cruise. I had no lights so I figured I lost the ground. I Jumpered from the neg terminal to the valve cover bolts with a 7 iron and it fired up. Found a piece of #12 ground wire from an electrical cord, crimped the ends and jumpered with that. Problem solved, so I would say a #12 is fine for a chassis ground. My guess is your problem is a short in the armiture of the gen set.