PDS Sudden/ total power loss??

[Paxdad]

My neighbor picked up his PDS from my house last night and approximately 100 yards up the road it lost total power. Pack is at 38.4v and each battery showing 6.4v. Removed controller cover and there was a distinct burnt controller smell but no signs of short etc. All connections tight and clean... The state of charge gauge even went dead. No reverse buzzer either when in Run and placed in rev with key on. Almost seems like the key switch or connetion dropped out. I did not have a chance to diagnose as it was late but any help on where to start when I get home will be appreciated.

[scottyb]

Start with the solenoid activation circuit. But a burnt smell under the environmental cover is a bad sign, usually means solenoid or controller failure.

[Paxdad]

Thanks for the quick reply and help. I will start with your direction. The cart does have the read switch bypassed. In addition the 60 amp fuse from the battery pack positive is connected directly to the battery with the charger positive and solenoid positive running to the opposite end of the fuse as well. I believe this is correct. Correct???

[scottyb]

The main + going to the solenoid should not be on the 60amp fuse. It should be a direct connection to the battery post. Is that what you are asking?

[Paxdad]

Yes that was what i was asking. I had it wired to the fuse and had previously moved it from the battery + post. Could this have caused the power loss?

[scottyb]

no.

[Hypersprint]

Originally Posted by Paxdad

Thanks for the quick reply and help. I will start with your direction. The cart does have the read switch bypassed. In addition the 60 amp fuse from the battery pack positive is connected directly to the battery with the charger positive and solenoid positive running to the opposite end of the fuse as well. I believe this is correct. Correct???

Originally Posted by Paxdad

Yes that was what i was asking. I had it wired to the fuse and had previously moved it from the battery + post. Could this have caused the power loss?

If you moved the positive lead to the solenoid from the battery post to use the 60a fuse I would think that you burned out that fuse. As Scotty mentioned the lead to the solenoid should be on the battery post, everything else can be connected to the fuse.

Rob

[Paxdad]

I tried to run some test last night and here is what I came up with and should also mention that the cause for me to work on their cart was prompted by a lightining strike whereby they had left it on the charger:
38.1 pack volts
38.1 volts @ large solenoid battery + post.
37.6 volts @ large solenoid post on controller side.
No voltage @ key switch in either on or off position.
No voltage @ at controller J4 pin 3 or 4 post keep in mind i was using the battery pack. negative post as my ground on meter.
No solenoid click when in F and KS on in Run mode.
Controller will not enter into the diagnostic mode.
Charger no longer recognizes charger when connected.
Reverse beeper no longer works when switch is in reverse.
The State of Charge gauge was working when he departed as described in my OP however upon his return it did not and upon removal of the KS panel it appears to have shorted across the 2 battery wires. I am thinking this may have taken out the key switch in the process.
As you can imagine without some of the basic components working to trouble shoot it is making this difficult. I do have some spare parts that I removed from other carts (solenoid, controller, resistor, etc.) that I can use as well but not sure where to start.

[JohnnieB]

I'd start by getting B+ to J1 Pins 4 & 5.
Pin 4 is from Reed switch, or elsewhere if Reed switch has been bypassed. (Always hot when not on charge, or always hot if reed switch is bypassed)
Pin 5 is from battery side main terminal of solenoid. (Always hot, unless battery pack is disconnected)
Without having B+ on those two pins the controller is dead and all the voltages it supplies to the various switches and things will not exist.
If you've got B+ at J1 Pins 4 & 5 and don't have voltage to Keyswitch, Run/Tow, F/R, etc, at the jacks on the controller, the controller is blown.


Then I'd check all the switches.
Fortunately, they are all stand alone components that can be checked with an Ohmmeter at the plugs on the controller.
Just pull the plugs and measure between the respective pins.

After cart is running, I'd troubleshoot battery charger and SoC meter ssues.

[Paxdad]

Scotty or Jonnie,
While testing for power (B+) on the J1 pins 4 and 5 my Fluke black probe will use the negative post on battery 6 correct? I will then use the meter's positive probe on the pins. In additon the Run/ Tow will be in "tow" key switch will be off or on? and f/R will be in "F"? Thanks for helping clarify.