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Gas Yamaha Gas Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles



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Old 08-27-2017, 08:25 PM   #1
mustangwagz
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Cool Working on G2

Hey folks, wanted to say Howdy and thank you all (even though most won't read this.. lol ) for the helpful info that I've been able to search through.

Basically, as title states, I'm working on my G2. Recently, it became "gutless" for a short pd of time and started to smoke and get hot.. It had oil in it, but I think some leaves got stuck in the fan cover.. so..it overheated.. Ever since then it started to smoke like a bar fly but still runs good and has good compression.. (figuring the rings or valve guide seals or something along those lines) but imma keep running it till it pops or clears up.. one or the other.. lol. then it'll be time for a BB.

Im also tinkering with my clutching. We ride it here on quad trails and roads in western PA. I did some reading on here earlier about setting your clutch spring in different holes, etc etc. Ive ALSO ordered (and should have tomorrow) the spacer and red clutch spring for my secondary. Ive also decided ill be shaving down my secondary sheave face for a lower "Low" gear ratio. (OEM belt don't seem to be fat enough to properly ride up high enough in MY opinion.. any recommendations on how much to shave? I figured ill shave as much off as I can safely till belt fits properly?

Next on my list of crap to do before it scatters, is get me a cheap 4" lift...im more concerned about getting my clutching done first. sometimes we pile all 4 of us on there and just "Puttz" around.

Has anyone came up with a way to make a solid rear drive for these yet or am I basically limited to a "Lincoln Locker" ?
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Old 08-27-2017, 09:42 PM   #2
sho305
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Default Re: Working on G2

I ran a umax spring that is a yamaha spring about $15. The other aftermarket ones can work but some you lose top speed they are too strong, the umax is not but step up from stock it will keep rpm up higher and great for lifted carts. Usually you don't need much clutching until big tires go on. Cut sheave will give lower gear I have one from CPP nice heavy one, it gives lower gear to take off or tow with, does nothing at higher speeds. Another good one is the kevlar gboost belt I got at CPP also its super nice belt slightly wider so it works better with worn clutches, its double cogged, and they don't wear out. That is the setup I recommend. There are a few springs that work slightly better some say like a plowmans he will get you one specific to your rig but the umax works well. Its heavier than stock no doubt. You can preload more with the stock spring that helps some, the umax you don't really need to. I dunno the exact cut but if you cut it flat it is near half inch wide cut. The kevlar belt will ride higher than stock, I ran all three. Now have clone I had to take the belt off because my 94c clutch did not like it, but ran it with stock clutch with great results. The 94 is new and does not like wider belt at all plus I can't move my motor back any more with the mount I made its about hitting the trans. Yes you need the spacer with any spring even the stock one can blast the c clip eventually. Not a bad idea to get a new nut for it too, and check the condition of the plastic pads. I got the new helix on mine the pads are much larger.
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Old 08-27-2017, 09:57 PM   #3
mustangwagz
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Default Re: Working on G2

Quote:
Originally Posted by sho305 View Post
I ran a umax spring that is a yamaha spring about $15. The other aftermarket ones can work but some you lose top speed they are too strong, the umax is not but step up from stock it will keep rpm up higher and great for lifted carts. Usually you don't need much clutching until big tires go on. Cut sheave will give lower gear I have one from CPP nice heavy one, it gives lower gear to take off or tow with, does nothing at higher speeds. Another good one is the kevlar gboost belt I got at CPP also its super nice belt slightly wider so it works better with worn clutches, its double cogged, and they don't wear out. That is the setup I recommend. There are a few springs that work slightly better some say like a plowmans he will get you one specific to your rig but the umax works well. Its heavier than stock no doubt. You can preload more with the stock spring that helps some, the umax you don't really need to. I dunno the exact cut but if you cut it flat it is near half inch wide cut. The kevlar belt will ride higher than stock, I ran all three. Now have clone I had to take the belt off because my 94c clutch did not like it, but ran it with stock clutch with great results. The 94 is new and does not like wider belt at all plus I can't move my motor back any more with the mount I made its about hitting the trans. Yes you need the spacer with any spring even the stock one can blast the c clip eventually. Not a bad idea to get a new nut for it too, and check the condition of the plastic pads. I got the new helix on mine the pads are much larger.
I do need to get new secondary buttons. I was just looking them up when I got the notification that you had replied. haha.

sheave cutting: 1/2 cut roughly, good to know! ill keep that in mind! thank you for the info!

Belt: Kevlar double cogged? Gotta P/N or location I can find one?

I had read about the UMAX spring but opted for the stiffer red one for the fact that we don't need high speed, kids mainly ride it in the dirt and mud and so do we.. so bigger tires may be in the future.. I gotta good source for them. haha.

Ill also look into a new nut! Good advice! Thanks sho!
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Old 08-27-2017, 09:59 PM   #4
cgtech
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Default Re: Working on G2

Dbyaj57h for belt. And we're not talking about cutting 1/2" off , we talking about cutting until your new freshly exposed metal "strip" is about 1/2" wide. I'm not a fan of cut sheaves, have seen some blown into pieces when combined with heavy spring,
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Old 08-27-2017, 10:11 PM   #5
sho305
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Default Re: Working on G2

Yes just like the photo thanks Cgtech!

The belt is a gboost heavy duty, CPP had them, you can look them up for yamaha carts on gboost site. They have a regular belt too I run right now but the kevlar while a few bucks more is way more belt. I think I will get a longer belt for mine due to my issues, and going to get a kevlar one and hope it works. I think this clutch just needs more room its a different clutch than stock and I can't move it back any more. I also had to take the umax back out because of the clutch, its way different clutch, it would hardly shift with the umax. I still don't have the setup figured out like I want but it runs pretty good now. I had the stock clutch working perfect with the weights drilled out a little but could not get shift rpm any higher and had to get a different clutch to run my clone at higher rpm it needed. I ran that stuff on stock motor and then on clone, then started modding the clone and had to change.

You could try a 1.25 belt same length I think its 39" but the HD kevlar belt I recommend because it really works better with worn clutches and its a much nicer belt. They run those on UTV, super HD belts.
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Old 08-27-2017, 10:14 PM   #6
mustangwagz
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Default Re: Working on G2

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgtech View Post
Dbyaj57h for belt. And we're not talking about cutting 1/2" off , we talking about cutting until your new freshly exposed metal "strip" is about 1/2" wide. I'm not a fan of cut sheaves, have seen some blown into pieces when combined with heavy spring,
Thank you CG. Yes I had assumed thats what was meant. Your picture will show me AND others a great representation of what they're shooting for IF they choose to take this route. I've seen cut sheaves scatter as well sir. sleds, 6x6 (6 wheelers) etc. I Also know that an exploding CVT clutch throws more shrapnel than a grenade.. no wander most CVT's have a guard on them.. (not meaning that'll stop it though.. haha)
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Old 08-27-2017, 10:21 PM   #7
cgtech
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Default Re: Working on G2

I have seen 2 comets explode, one that I was driving. Those weights are effen scary at terminal velocity! One put a dent in a car. That being said, I still like comets just fine, just not super worn out ones.
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Old 08-28-2017, 03:58 PM   #8
mustangwagz
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Default Re: Working on G2

Haha! Its scary!

Has anyone figured out a way to modify the primary on these things yet to give them a higher stall speed?
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:20 PM   #9
mustangwagz
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Default Re: Working on G2

Got my Secondary machined this evening, took about .060 off it, gave me JUST under a 1/2" wide flat mating surface. My red "Torque" spring came in the mail today and spacer as well.. I will say this.. I didn't use the red spring.. Holy crap is it stiff, ever time id try to slowly release the floating section of the sheave, it'd blow the woodruff key outta the hole! Kinda thinking it was a waste.. BUT.. what I DID do is this..

Took the spacer and flipped it, (yes, I removed the snap ring) bringing the helix out closer to sheave face.. Then I installed a washer that I had to hand fit to the diameter of the splines.. THEN installed helix, Factory spring (in B-4) and then assembled as usual.

Results? Ive deff got higher RPM's at lower speeds like I wanted to accomplish. I DID lose top speed as well. (thinking cuz I shimmed the helix out so much.. I assume its because I lost sheave travel due to spring compression)

Ive got some combinations I can play with at this moment.. I may try using the red spring WITHOUT the spacer to see what I can accomplish in that sense.. Probably won't gain anything really, id assume it'll keep me at about the same ratio I am now.. (id gain a little helix depth towards trans..but id lose compression room due to stiffness and overall thickness of spring coils)
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Old 08-31-2017, 08:38 PM   #10
mustangwagz
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Default Re: Working on G2

So it the Economy 4" lift an ok setup? any complaints, etc etc? aint got the cha-ching to dump into a 6" even though it'd be fuN!
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