motor removal.. 96 txt

[cableguy_hd]

Ok. I know how to remove it but how hard will it be to get one out of a 96' year model? As far as being seized to housing...so forth. I'm going to send it off for an upgrade. Hopefully PQ can help but depends on type of motor I have.

[yurtle]

Best way to answer that is to do it. My '98 was pretty easy, and I just manhandled it out and in. When I replaced it, I used straps to help support it from above. I think others have used a floor jack to help support it.

[cableguy_hd]

according to your sig. you're 48v with a 36v series motor. Is that a torq. or speed motor?

[yurtle]

Speed.

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Take the rear end out of the car. Take the passenger side tire off of the rear end. Take brake drum off. Flip brake drum around backwards and tighten lug nuts to where they are snug enough to hold the drum to the axle. Don't torque them down. With the aid of an assistant, lift the rear end up 3 - 4 feet into the air and drop the rear end onto a concrete floor onto the inverted brake drum. The drum is inverted so you don't damage the wheel studs during this process. The motor will fall off as soon as it hits the ground. If it doesn't, try it again. I've never had to drop one more than three times. Don't laugh. Try it and thank me later.

[Bmatlock00]

Take the three bolts out, if it does not come off easily, spray penetrating oil, I like to use kroil oil, between the motor and housing toward the coupler with a straw. Let it soak in for a little while. Bolt a short battery cable between the s1 and s2 terminals to use as a handle to pull the motor off.

[cgtech]

Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71 View Post
Take the rear end out of the car. Take the passenger side tire off of the rear end. Take brake drum off. Flip brake drum around backwards and tighten lug nuts to where they are snug enough to hold the drum to the axle. Don't torque them down. With the aid of an assistant, lift the rear end up 3 - 4 feet into the air and drop the rear end onto a concrete floor onto the inverted brake drum. The drum is inverted so you don't damage the wheel studs during this process. The motor will fall off as soon as it hits the ground. If it doesn't, try it again. I've never had to drop one more than three times. Don't laugh. Try it and thank me later.


THAT IS SO AWESOME, IM GONNA TRY IT TOMORROW! I CANT WAIT!

Really tho..

I use a strap from a cheap rachet tie-down. It is just like a dog leash with the collar hook end ran through the hand-loop to choke-up on the motor. Big ac motors require two straps. Works great!

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Bmatlock00

Take the three bolts out, if it does not come off easily, spray penetrating oil, I like to use kroil oil, between the motor and housing toward the coupler with a straw. Let it soak in for a little while. Bolt a short battery cable between the s1 and s2 terminals to use as a handle to pull the motor off.

YIKES! The terminals are brass, and they go through a plastic insulator, so I'd avoid using them as a lifting device. If it's stuck, the tendency would be to use the handle to wiggle it back and forth, up and down, and in and out. I wouldn't subject electrical terminals to deliberate mechanical strain.

[Bmatlock00]

Originally Posted by yurtle

YIKES! The terminals are brass, and they go through a plastic insulator, so I'd avoid using them as a lifting device. If it's stuck, the tendency would be to use the handle to wiggle it back and forth, up and down, and in and out. I wouldn't subject electrical terminals to deliberate mechanical strain.

I've done it many times and never had one break, that's how I carry them around also. Maybe I'm just lucky.

[93yellowclubcar]

If a motor gets seized on the input shaft of the rear end, you'll just end up pulling the case off the motor and have a nice shiny armature sticking out on the rear end wondering how the heck its gonna come off, especially since all the prying you have tried failed. This is where the method Crash posted comes in, done it more than once and it is by far easier than fooling forever with prying tools and PBBlaster. Maybe stuck motors are more common on CCs, but there's no reason this wouldn't work on an EZGO either.