RXV will not move

[HiTechRedNeck]

Hold on a minute.
cart trys or does the post test and the twist test?

Small movement of cart and thunk thunk thunk sound?

if yes to both, problem is probably failed parking brake.

Purple and red wires should not be connected. For factory brake light relay.
Connecting anything else to these wires could result in controller failure.

green light on charge port will not cause twist test to fail.
cart will detect "cart plugged into charger" and will not try twist test.

[cdscycleandatv]

Originally Posted by Golf cart guy

Check the start/stop switch since those things fail if you breath on them wrong

So is that switch the one on the side at the base of the pedal or at the front? I tested the one on the side and it read .46 to 4.48 v while pressing the pedal. I did the same to the brake pedal, and had close to the same readings. I did not test the switch at the front of either pedal.

[cdscycleandatv]

Originally Posted by HiTechRedNeck

Hold on a minute.
cart trys or does the post test and the twist test?

Small movement of cart and thunk thunk thunk sound?

if yes to both, problem is probably failed parking brake.

Purple and red wires should not be connected. For factory brake light relay.
Connecting anything else to these wires could result in controller failure.

green light on charge port will not cause twist test to fail.
cart will detect "cart plugged into charger" and will not try twist test.

I assume the post test is the solenoid click, then a thunk and a quit reverse buzzer buzz, then another thunk and the reverse buzzer stops buzzing. Also I can watch the motor shaft to the twist test.

The purple and red wires are just sitting idle under the dash, and there is no relay. There is a harness plug for a relay, but the red and purple wire are no longer attached to the plug.

The green charger light only stayed on the one time after washing the cart, and it hasn't come on since. Guess it was a small short due to the water.

I was leaning towards parking brake also. As I was saying earlier I placed a jumper wire from the blk/wht wire at the #1 plug located by the controller to the main ground at the pack and the brake releases. I can then press the gas(elec.) pedal and the wheels will come up to speed. I can then release the gas pedal, and press the brake pedal, and the wheels will stop like normal. To do the jumper wire thing I have to first place the key into forward mode and then connect the jumper wire. If I connect the jumper wire before turning on the key a alarm sounds, but the jumper wire trick still works even though the alarm is sounding.

Just thought I would throw that jumper wire thing in there again so you guys understand and know everything I'm trying here. I know how frustrating it is to try and help people on these forums, and after you have steered them in one direction then they tell you something they forgot, and it changes the whole diagnoses. Thanks for all the help so far Guys.

Oh almost forgot to ask, Is the parking brake the same as the main brake? While just getting a signal as needed depending on the situation(mode) the cart is in. i.e. Key on while in forward/reverse mode, and pressing the pedal or key on not pressing the pedal and key off parked. And if it is the parking brake how do I fix that problem?

[rabbitreborn]

2 quick questions..... and an observation....

1.Is this a Danhar controller or a Curtis controller?

2. After the cart does the POST test , then you are jumping the ground to the #1 plug and the cart runs fine?

observation: Ignore the loose wires under the cupholder. 99% of the carts made do not use those wires.

If what I am thinking is happening, it sounds like the controller is supplying the ground to release the brake for the POST test, then failing to supply the ground afterwards. I would be leaning towards a bad controller but I would caution that you take the cart to someone that has the appropriate handheld to confirm this.

[cdscycleandatv]

Originally Posted by rabbitreborn

2 quick questions..... and an observation....

1.Is this a Danhar controller or a Curtis controller?

2. After the cart does the POST test , then you are jumping the ground to the #1 plug and the cart runs fine?

observation: Ignore the loose wires under the cupholder. 99% of the carts made do not use those wires.

If what I am thinking is happening, it sounds like the controller is supplying the ground to release the brake for the POST test, then failing to supply the ground afterwards. I would be leaning towards a bad controller but I would caution that you take the cart to someone that has the appropriate handheld to confirm this.

1. It is a Danhar controller

2. Yes.

And a reply to your thoughts: It is doing exactly as you stated. Ground for the post, and then no ground after the post.

[cdscycleandatv]

So does anyone know of anything else besides the controller that would cause the park brake not to disengage after the post startup??

[cgtech]

yeah, missing or problem "loop plug" on bottom of cupholder area (red & green wires).

[cdscycleandatv]

Originally Posted by cgtech

yeah, missing or problem "loop plug" on bottom of cupholder area (red & green wires).

It's hooked up. Has 2 jumper(loop) wires on it.

[cdscycleandatv]

I fell like I'm at a HONDA technician Training Seminar, they want you to get up on all the new goodies they are going to release for the upcoming year in one week. It could be upwards of 100+ new changes. Shoot half way through the year I'm still on the phone with tech support or talking to a tech that is half way around the world that is on the expert list with a particular issue. I guess it's like CRASH course 101. LOL. I have learned a lot about carts in the last week, and that's for sure. Thanks again for all the input everyone has given.

[cgtech]

might be about time to rent the programmer/handheld diagnostic tool to see what the cart thinks is wrong. i just re-read this thread, do you still have only 20something volts on the charge port blue wire? the charge port could still be the whole problem. try unplugging the blue wire's plug and running a jumper to the side of the plug that does Not go right into the charge port, hook it to 48v B+ (main pack positive). this will tell the controller "the charger is Not plugged in".