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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 11-13-2018, 09:33 AM   #1
Flyingarmy
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Default 2010 EZGO RXV Issue

I picked up a 2010 RXV and I decided to separate the 12V accessory system by adding an additional 12V battery. The RXV already had a 48V to 12V converter for the lights. I moved the converter under the dash and used it as the trigger for a 12V relay. I used the RED wire on the key switch as the 48V power. See attached wiring diagram. The 12V system worked fine, that was until I plugged in the cart to charge. It blew a fuse on the fuse block I added and now the cart will not run or the brake disengage, even in TOW. I found the Danaher Troubleshooting Guide this morning and will use that when I get home but wanted to see if anyone had insight into this issue. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-13-2018, 09:44 AM   #2
BobBoyce
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Default Re: 2010 EZGO RXV Issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyingarmy View Post
I picked up a 2010 RXV and I decided to separate the 12V accessory system by adding an additional 12V battery. The RXV already had a 48V to 12V converter for the lights. I moved the converter under the dash and used it as the trigger for a 12V relay. I used the RED wire on the key switch as the 48V power. See attached wiring diagram. The 12V system worked fine, that was until I plugged in the cart to charge. It blew a fuse on the fuse block I added and now the cart will not run or the brake disengage, even in TOW. I found the Danaher Troubleshooting Guide this morning and will use that when I get home but wanted to see if anyone had insight into this issue. Thanks in advance.
First off, never tap into, or even measures voltages, on any wires of the keyswitch or SOC meter! Literally hundreds of RXV owners or techs that didn't know any better have fried RXV controllers by doing this! The keyswitch power source is not fused for running any accessories. You would run the DC to DC converter from the controller side of the solenoid.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:02 AM   #3
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Default Re: 2010 EZGO RXV Issue

Bob thanks for the quick reply. Any chance that the 5V system of the controller isn't fried?
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:03 AM   #4
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Default Re: 2010 EZGO RXV Issue

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Originally Posted by BobBoyce View Post
First off, never tap into, or even measures voltages, on any wires of the keyswitch or SOC meter! Literally hundreds of RXV owners or techs that didn't know any better have fried RXV controllers by doing this! The keyswitch power source is not fused for running any accessories. You would run the DC to DC converter from the controller side of the solenoid.
I think we may have just met "hundreds plus 1". This is the textbook way to fry it...
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:05 AM   #5
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Default Re: 2010 EZGO RXV Issue

The solenoid clicks twice but nothing else happens. The SOC shows dead batteries but the pack is at 52.1V. I also removed the floor boards and vacuumed out the pedals, hoping that I possibly could have hit one of the switches by the pedals?
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:15 AM   #6
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Default Re: 2010 EZGO RXV Issue

Thanks for the insight. I should have done more research before moving forward with the 12V system and relay. What would be my options now since the controller is probably fried?

New controller, rebuilt controller, upgraded controller? And would I need to replace the SOC, Key Switch, etc?
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:20 AM   #7
usgicollector
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Default Re: 2010 EZGO RXV Issue

Go with the Danaher to Curtis 649546 conversion kit. You can do a lot more with the Curtis controllers.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:22 AM   #8
BobBoyce
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Default Re: 2010 EZGO RXV Issue

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Originally Posted by Flyingarmy View Post
The solenoid clicks twice but nothing else happens. The SOC shows dead batteries but the pack is at 52.1V. I also removed the floor boards and vacuumed out the pedals, hoping that I possibly could have hit one of the switches by the pedals?
The SOC display showing dead means the secondary 5V bus (that powers the encoders and sensors) is not functional. The solenoid clicking means the keyswitch 48V is working. There are two 5V power supplies in the controller. A low current one for the encoders/sensors, and a higher current one for the controller logic. I would suggest that you send a PM to usgicollector and ask if he has any of those Danaher to Curtis conversion kits left. Sending your Danaher out for repair could cost the same or more.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:27 AM   #9
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Default Re: 2010 EZGO RXV Issue

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Originally Posted by Flyingarmy View Post
Thanks for the insight. I should have done more research before moving forward with the 12V system and relay. What would be my options now since the controller is probably fried?

New controller, rebuilt controller, upgraded controller? And would I need to replace the SOC, Key Switch, etc?
A lot of RXV owners find out the hard way. Even something as "innocent" as cutting a buzzer wire will damage the controller... The keyswitch and SOC guage should be OK. The encoders could be damaged though.
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Old 11-15-2018, 11:13 AM   #10
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Default Re: 2010 EZGO RXV Issue

So I checked the voltage on the SOC and was only getting 2.2V with 51.2V on the power pack, the orange wire coming off the controller was -17.somethingV. As BobBoyce and cgtech stated I fried my controller. I ordered one of the Danaher to Curtis conversion kits from usgicollector last night and will change it out this weekend. I also separated my 12V system completely so that it doesn't even come close to touching anything on the 48V system. (Lesson learned). Been looking through the install instructions and its pretty straight forward.

A few quick questions:

1. If on the encoders/sensors are bad form the controller frying will hooking up the new controller with defective encoders/sensors cause any issues? I can't troubleshoot those with out a live circuit.

2. Is there anything salvageable from the old controller, DRM, Resistor, Solenoid that I can pass on to another member that needs that part?
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