Cable Upgrade - TXT 48V

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Out2Sea

For clarity, are you saying you don’t have to upgrade all the wires to see an improvement vs “you’re only as fast as the slowest horse.”

In laymen’s term a relay race vs a stage coach team. In one the finish time is lessen, while the other will be fixed.

In a series cart, the rotor (armature) and stator (field) windings are in series, and all need to be the same. In a sepex cart, the armature and field windings don't carry the same current, thus they can be different.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Out2Sea

For clarity, are you saying you don’t have to upgrade all the wires to see an improvement vs “you’re only as fast as the slowest horse.”

In laymen’s term a relay race vs a stage coach team. In one the finish time is lessen, while the other will be fixed.

All high current cables (13 or 14 for a series drive, 10 for a sepex drive, not sure how many for an AC drive) ought to be at least 4Ga and 2Ga is recommended for controllers with more than 500A throughput. Battery pack configurations such as 7x6V and 8x6V require more cables than the typical 6x6V and 6x8V packs.

In a series drive, all 13 or 14 ( 3 vs 4 terminal controller) heavy gauge cables are in series, so if thinner gauge ones are mixed in, the whole circuit is limited by the performance of thinnest cable.

All 10 heavy gauge cables in a sepex (separately excited) drive are in series also. The motor's field windings are excited separately from the armature by a low power (30A or less in stock controllers) output from the controller, and do not need nearly as thick of cables since they only carry about 1/10 the amps as the cables feeding the armature.

For AC drives, all the heavy cables connecting the batteries together and the battery pack to the controller are in series and ought to be the same gauge cable. The three cables connecting the controller to the motor carry three phase AC and if I under stand it correctly, aren't used replaceable.

[Out2Sea]

OK we need to dummy this down, using your example of 20 feet of wire we have 3 scenarios:

1) 20 feet of #2
2) 20 feet of #4
3) 19 feet of #2 with a splice of 1 foot of #4 in the middle. The splice joints has zero lost (100% efficiency.)

Does option 3 have the same efficiency as 1, or 2, or somewhere in between.

Answer needs to be 10 words or less, and not include “depends” to get a top score.

I don’t know is a valid answer in this exercise.

[Sergio]

Calculated order of efficiency: 1,3,2

Substitute 1 ft of 4ga with 1ft of 6ga on #3: 1,3,2

Practical order of efficiency: Not noticeable in performance.

[geoffarias]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

All high current cables (13 or 14 for a series drive, 10 for a sepex drive, not sure how many for an AC drive) ought to be at least 4Ga and 2Ga is recommended for controllers with more than 500A throughput. Battery pack configurations such as 7x6V and 8x6V require more cables than the typical 6x6V and 6x8V packs.

In a series drive, all 13 or 14 ( 3 vs 4 terminal controller) heavy gauge cables are in series, so if thinner gauge ones are mixed in, the whole circuit is limited by the performance of thinnest cable.

All 10 heavy gauge cables in a sepex (separately excited) drive are in series also. The motor's field windings are excited separately from the armature by a low power (30A or less in stock controllers) output from the controller, and do not need nearly as thick of cables since they only carry about 1/10 the amps as the cables feeding the armature.


For AC drives, all the heavy cables connecting the batteries together and the battery pack to the controller are in series and ought to be the same gauge cable. The three cables connecting the controller to the motor carry three phase AC and if I under stand it correctly, aren't used replaceable.

That clears things up along with this video online.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb-6XQfqH3w

Ill update once I get wires on Friday and swap them out. What type of increase should I expect in MPH from 6 gauge to 2 gauge if Im currently maxing out around 18.6 with 22" tires?

[davewil@mc.net]

Originally Posted by geoffarias

That clears things up along with this video online.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb-6XQfqH3w

Ill update once I get wires on Friday and swap them out. What type of increase should I expect in MPH from 6 gauge to 2 gauge if Im currently maxing out around 18.6 with 22" tires?

My bet is that unless your existing cables are in very poor shape, you will see hardly any diffrerence.
Anxious to hear your results.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Out2Sea

OK we need to dummy this down, using your example of 20 feet of wire we have 3 scenarios:

1) 20 feet of #2
2) 20 feet of #4
3) 19 feet of #2 with a splice of 1 foot of #4 in the middle. The splice joints has zero lost (100% efficiency.)

Does option 3 have the same efficiency as 1, or 2, or somewhere in between.

Answer needs to be 10 words or less, and not include “depends” to get a top score.

I don’t know is a valid answer in this exercise.

1. Loss = 31.260W/100A
2. Loss = 49.700W/100A
3. Loss = 32.182W/100A

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by geoffarias

What type of increase should I expect in MPH from 6 gauge to 2 gauge if Im currently maxing out around 18.6 with 22" tires?

You're likely to get a noticeable increase in acceleration from a standstill and probably won't slow quite as much going up hills, but with the current top speed of 18.6 MPH on 22" tall tires, your controller is probably not in the Freedom mode, so the controller is limiting your cart to 18.6MPH, or about 3500RPM at the motor.

Max RPM with the Curtis 1206HB (TCT) controller (in freedom mode) is about 4300RPM which is 18.5MPH on 18" tall tires and nearly 22.5MPH on 22" tall tires. On the other hand, if the tires are the low pressure type (<10PSI max inflation pressure) they may be bogging the cart down from 22.5MPH to 18.6MPH.

To get more top speed, the Curtis 1206HB controller will probably have to be reprogrammed (needs a Curtis handheld programmer to change modes) or replaced with an aftermarket controller with user programmable RPM limiting, such as the Alltrax XCT.

[geoffarias]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

You're likely to get a noticeable increase in acceleration from a standstill and probably won't slow quite as much going up hills, but with the current top speed of 18.6 MPH on 22" tall tires, your controller is probably not in the Freedom mode, so the controller is limiting your cart to 18.6MPH, or about 3500RPM at the motor.

Max RPM with the Curtis 1206HB (TCT) controller (in freedom mode) is about 4300RPM which is 18.5MPH on 18" tall tires and nearly 22.5MPH on 22" tall tires. On the other hand, if the tires are the low pressure type (<10PSI max inflation pressure) they may be bogging the cart down from 22.5MPH to 18.6MPH.

To get more top speed, the Curtis 1206HB controller will probably have to be reprogrammed (needs a Curtis handheld programmer to change modes) or replaced with an aftermarket controller with user programmable RPM limiting, such as the Alltrax XCT.

Bob stopped by two weeks ago and enabled Freedom and all the other settings that should allow me better speeds. He said I need to change cables out. They appear to be in ok condition and thats whats confusing me.

Bob said the same thing, based on stock controller and motor with freedom mode enabled I should be running like 22 MPH which is exactly where I want to be.

Im going to shoot them with an infrared temp gun tonight after running around the neighborhood. Worst case, we will find out tomorrow after swapping the cables

[Brob1969]

I for one am very interested to hear the results on the temperature differences of the cables.

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