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Old 11-20-2019, 05:37 PM   #1
DSSA0812
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Default New Batteries = No Power (anywhere)

Sorry for length but going to try to get out in front of all the 'did you check this' back and forth replies and the Club Car naysayers.

A friend of mine brought me his 09 Club Car 48v DS-IQ (6x8v).

He's not allowed to work on it, because of what happened the last time (per his wife) a $1600 trip to Ben Nelson's.

He complained that his batteries didn't seem to be holding a charge as before. They are 4 years old and they use their cart daily, so he went off and bought new batteries, bringing me the cart and new batteries on a trailer. (He did not remove the old batteries)

I checked the tow switch to 'off', F/R in 'neutral' key off, and even removed the keys prior to placing in cupholder.

I began by removing the B6-Neg, then B1-Pos, then remaining battery cables. dropped in new batteries. That's it. (Notice have not reconnected yet)

He wanted an auxiliary light bar installed, so yesterday evening that was installed, connecting it via relay to the existing headlight switch and connecting only the lighting circuit, as was previously used (B2-pos, B3-neg) to make sure it worked. (I mention this because of the battery draw in those two batteries, while 'localized' would effect the overall pack voltage (see below) We walked away from it.

Came in this morning, properly connected all of the battery cables, except B1-Pos and B6-Neg.

Then check tow switch AGAIN, F/R AGAIN and Key switch AGAIN. ALL OFF. I reconnected B1-Pos then B6-Neg.

Then turned 'tow' to run, put the key in and turned to on and moved the F/R to reverse. Then pressed the pedal NOTHING! Not a reverse buzzer, Not a 'click' at the solenoid.

This thing had previously had its OBC bypassed and no changes have been make to it for years. The Black wire from charge receptacle runs to B6-neg (and is connected) The gray 'sensor-wire' from OBC unit has also been re-routed and connected to B6-neg.

I never done a 'bypass' myself, but from what I know and even checking again this afternoon, this seems to have been correctly done. So I don't think we have an OBC problem.

This thing ran Saturday, but just in case, I recorded the following at the solenoid, for examination.

In RUN, the Solenoid's Battery post has 48.8 volts, the Solenoids Controller Post has 44.6 volts. The smaller post with Light blue wire has 48.7 volts, the Dark Blue wire with White stripe has 46.5 volts.

In TOW I had same voltage across the large posts and no voltage at either of the smaller terminals, so I believe that is correct.

I know the voltage in the battery pack is lower than when first installed, due to the installation of the light-bar, which was 'on' longer than you might think, as its installation was frequently interrupted by the real purpose of staying late last night; a transmission install.

I've put it on it's charger and that reports that it is working correctly. At moment I'm content to leave it alone, so that it doesn't become 'abused.'

Does anyone have a guess as to what I might have done, I'm really very careful about these things. So ???
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Old 11-20-2019, 06:14 PM   #2
Sergio
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Default Re: New Batteries = No Power (anywhere)

First of all, disconnect your accessory wires from the batteries, it is wrong and it will not work right that way.

Your friend really needs a 48v->12v converter, but if he insists in just tapping two 8v batteries, they must be the first two batteries starting with pack negative post.

That is because the pack negative and the accessory negative wire share common circuits in the harness.

Second, if Your OBC by-pass description is all they did, that is also wrong since that only by-passes the charging control circuit and not the Controller lockout circuit which appears to be the problem.

The OBC 6-pin connector needs to be disconnected and the Blue and White wires on the cart harness side need to be spliced together.

Do You know why they connected the "sense" wire to pack negative?

If that was to allow the use of the original PowerDrive3, that is also wrong since without the OBC controlling it the Powerdrive box is just an unregulated power supply and it will not charge the batteries properly.

I would disconnect that wire gray "Sense" wire from pack negative to prevent an OEM charger from ever being plugged on the cart since it would run non stop.
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Old 11-20-2019, 11:01 PM   #3
DSSA0812
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Default Re: New Batteries = No Power (anywhere)

Thanks for the quick reply

We can re-arrange his accessory wires as you described.

Why his OBC is bypassed I do not know and I doubt he does.

Looking through threads for help earlier, I saw a number of ways of by-passing the OBC described. All mentioned the black wire to B6-Neg, some mentioned the gray wire. We can fix this for him also, with some help.

Whoever by-passed the OBC's gray wire, did so via a 'quick connect' saddling in a piece of 12ga wire, then to a ring terminal and then to B6-Neg.

'Below' that 'quick-connect' there is a yellow fuse holder and a continuing piece of what I presume is the original gray wire, but that isn't connected to anything, and the end of which is wrapped with electrical tape.

What does that gray wire connect to? Do you know what size fuse?

Now, concerning the 6 pin connector you mentioned; where is it? To splice the blue and white wires together as you describe, do we cut from connector and connect to one another or something else?
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Old 11-21-2019, 06:02 AM   #4
yawood
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Default Re: New Batteries = No Power (anywhere)

I assume you know about the OBC Bypass sticky? If not, it is here:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...bypassing.html

That should give you extra information.

Also with the key on you need to press the go pedal more than once to wake up the controller (but you probably did that anyway).

Cheers.
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Old 11-21-2019, 06:25 AM   #5
DSSA0812
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Default Re: New Batteries = No Power (anywhere)

Thanks for your insight. I have reviewed the 'sticky' as recommended.

As I understand it, this system being an IQ, I simply need to cut both the blue and white wires between the OBC and the connector to the Controller, then connect these wires to one another.

It appears from the comments concerning the wisdom of saving 'old' connectors that the 'loop' or connection of these two wires is made between the 'butt ends' leading back into the connector that plugs into the controller and not between the 'butt ends' that create a loop back into the OBC. Is this correct?

I also found this on an ATG site

“To by-pass “lock out” on IQ System, cut the light blue wire at pin number 5 on the 16 pin controller connector. Connect a 18 gauge wire from the light blue wire going to the 16 pin connector and route the other end to battery positive at the solenoid large terminal (from battery number one) or the back of charging receptacle red positive terminal. Tape the light blue wire going to the computer. If the car runs and charges install 10 amp fuse in the jumper and leave it that way. If you wish to retain “lock out” replace the computer.”

Does this result in the same effect?
If so, which method is preferred?
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Old 11-21-2019, 06:53 AM   #6
Sergio
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Default Re: New Batteries = No Power (anywhere)

The method in the sticky is preferred.

In a working OBC system, the Controller pin #5 (obc blue wire) is a low current input that only has power when the Tow/Run switch is ON.

It makes no sense to run that wire to a constant power source and even less sense to put a 10 amp fuse on a circuit that will use 0.03 amps.

If the OBC is bad, cut the wires flush with the OBC and jump the Blue and White (power from tow/run switch) wires.

You can tape the other wires individually or remove them like shown in the sticky.

The OBC can be removed from the system after that if desired.

Do not connect the gray "sense" wire to anything.

That wire is only to be used with a working OBC and the Powerdrive charger can only be used with a working OBC.

If your friend wants to retain the lockout feature (prevent cart from working when charger is plugged), tell us the type of charger you are using and we can suggest ways to accomplish it.

Some folks just run the new charger DC cord through the steering wheel before plugging it to the cart as a reminder.
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Old 11-21-2019, 10:24 PM   #7
DSSA0812
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Default Re: New Batteries = No Power (anywhere)

Based on your response last evening, I questioned my friend this morning about his OBC situation. I did not see you last post from this morning before leaving out and that might have been a good thing.

He bought it that way and at the time he was told the OBC bypass was necessary because the charger that came with it was not a Club Car brand. (Thunderbolt ??)

However, since then that charger died and he bought a used Club Car charger.

So I removed the OBC bypass of the gray 'sense' wire and repaired the black wire reconfiguring it back to factory as represented on a schematic I found on the web. Fortunately NAPA had a fuse for it.

After making my way through the OBC reset procedure ( I screwed up the first time) the cart began to function normally. I drove it around for about 10 minutes.

I put it on a rack and let it run wide open for more than an hour, then drove it around the parking lot for another 10 minutes and it seemed to perform fine.

I have put it on one of mine's chargers, which is a Club Car and we'll see how she does in morning.

It may have healed itself.

I also ordered a voltage reducer as you suggested to run his accessories.
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Old 11-21-2019, 10:56 PM   #8
WalterM6
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Default Re: New Batteries = No Power (anywhere)

What is a $1600 trip to Ben Nelson's?
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Old 11-21-2019, 11:34 PM   #9
mrgolf
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Default Re: New Batteries = No Power (anywhere)

I don't think it is good to run the cart wide open with the wheels off the ground.
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Old 11-21-2019, 11:53 PM   #10
Mooncarter
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Default Re: New Batteries = No Power (anywhere)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgolf View Post
I don't think it is good to run the cart wide open with the wheels off the ground.
I'm surprised it stayed together that long. No load WOT for over an hour.
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