F/R Switch Bus Bars

[scottyb]

If another HF F&R will fix it, that's what I would do for the next 5 yrs.

It is not uncommon to have disposable contact points in a DC system, the same holds true for the F&R & solenoid contacts.

[donhow]

Work by electricity is measured and is the result of voltage (volts) and electron flow (amperage). Since the batteries supply an almost constant 48 volts, the amount of work performed (as when the motor turns) is determined by the amount of amperage flow. In the optimum situation there would be no resistance to this flow of electrons (amperage). Unfortunately the media used to control the flow of electrons is metal and metal has some resistance to this flow. When the electrons meet this resistance (a function of the molecular structure and size of the metal) the result is work performed in the form of heat generated. The degree of resistance is the result of the type of metal, the amount of metal (the larger the mass the less the resistance) and any connections used to control the flow of the electrons. So, for enough heat to be generated there must be a lot of amperage (also called current) and resistance (also known as ohms). When we increase the motor power (horsepower that is measures in watts that is a function of amperage and voltage) we cause more amperage to be drawn from the batteries. For the bus bar in the F&R switch to heat up, the bus bar is inadequate (either in size, quality of material, or possibly connections) to handle the increased flow of electrons (amperage). Check it out.

[stovedup]

Thank you for the replies. I think I killed the solenoid tinkering with it. I am ordering a new one as well as replacing the limit switches. The controller is a 700 amp and the solenoid is a 200 amp with 600 output. I will make a new bus bar out of copper stock instead of the steel. I still think the F/R switch is OK, seeing very little wear on it. Is there a test for the controller?

[Golfdog]

Originally Posted by stovedup

Thank you for the replies. I think I killed the solenoid tinkering with it. I am ordering a new one as well as replacing the limit switches. The controller is a 700 amp and the solenoid is a 200 amp with 600 output. I will make a new bus bar out of copper stock instead of the steel. I still think the F/R switch is OK, seeing very little wear on it. Is there a test for the controller?

I think your solenoid is a bit light weight. Alltrax for example recommend the 200amp for their 400 - 450 amp controllers and 400amp for the 550 - 600 amp controller.

[donhow]

I disassembled my 2001 DS CC F&R switch. The illustrated parts list for the 2001/2002 cars is very incomplete. The actual switch contact assembly is not included. There are 4 large copper contacts, each located on the end of a long threaded 3/8" bolt shaft. There are two round connectors about 5/8" in diameter with a small shaft that end with the female connection that you connect to in the back of the switch. By removing a retaining ring on the control shaft the entire switch assembly with the contacts comes apart. I found that all of the contact had a lot of corrosion. This could cause a lot of resistance to current flow and create a lot of heat. I,ll write more after I re-finish the contacts and replace the bus bar which appears to be wholly inadequate.

[donhow]

I replaced the bus bars with C110 copper, 0.094 thick, cleaned the contacts, re-assembled and installed the switch and it is really working fine. It doesn't heat up under load now and the motor is getting a full load of amperage. Anyone needing copper bus bars, let me know.

[bogusky]

Bus bars with C110 copper, 0.094 thick, need two for mine.Can you help St George Island FL.

[bogusky]

Bus bars with C110 copper, 0.094 thick, need two for mine.Can you help St George Island FL.