Wiring for 3 Position Key Switch

[smuponies]

Got it working! 3-way switch. In the first position the cart moves (always a good sign) and the Datel voltmeter comes up. All of my accessories (12V) come on in the 2nd key switch position. They all work, too!

I have a few other questions but will post separately. Here are a few pictures (sorry for bad focus in some) of my efforts thus far. You know how it is, one thing leads to another and before you know it you're re-doing the whole cart.

I started about 3 months ago with a 400A controller, 4G cable, Solenoid, and F&R switch all complements of ScottyB. This go around, I've removed the body and it is at the shop getting painted Escalade White! Can't wait for that. I've also put in a new motor, new battery frame, voltage reducer, headlight, MP3 player, Cig lighter, a volt meter.

Would love to hear if anyone has any suggestions. I am a big time novice with this stuff, but it sure is fun!

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[smuponies]

More photos...

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[scottyb]

Looking good. Which D&D motor is that? ... Good thing we got you the Superduty solenoid.

[smuponies]

I believe it is the 2:1. It mainly increases torque (about 30%) and only slightly increases speed. Maximum speed (if I remember correctly) is 16mph. We live in a hilly area and I'm weary about going too fast with stock brakes.

I don't know if I'm looking at that in the correct light, but that was my rationale.

[gornoman]

Originally Posted by smuponies

So, for the battery meter, that says to me I can just place that in series on the green wire coming from the key switch. Cut the Gree wire, run it into the battery meter and then connect to the green wire that travels back to the f&r switch area.

I have a problem with this description. Did you actually wire it this way, and if so, does it work? Any voltage meter (digital or analog) needs to measure voltage from a parallel connection, not a series connection. A series connection would cause any current on that circuit to FLOW THROUGH the meter quicly rendering it useless.

[smuponies]

I did not wire it that way. At that point in the thread, I was really just thinking out loud.

What I ended up doing for the voltage meter was running a cable from the first key switch position to the + on the datel meter. Then, a second cable from the + on the datel meter (same connection) to the original green wire that goes back to the F&R switch area. Lastly I wired the - on the datel meter to the solenoid.

Seems like it works great. Very accurate. All I do is turn the key and it comes on. Let me know if this isn't the right way to do it...still figuring all this out and am sure I screwed something up.

[gornoman]

Originally Posted by smuponies

I did not wire it that way. At that point in the thread, I was really just thinking out loud.

What I ended up doing for the voltage meter was running a cable from the first key switch position to the + on the datel meter. Then, a second cable from the + on the datel meter (same connection) to the original green wire that goes back to the F&R switch area. Lastly I wired the - on the datel meter to the solenoid.

Seems like it works great. Very accurate. All I do is turn the key and it comes on. Let me know if this isn't the right way to do it...still figuring all this out and am sure I screwed something up.

I would really prefer this be attached to the main pack negative. I have no idea what side of the solenoid you connected to. Using the main pack negative completes the parallel hookup.

[smuponies]

That is easy to do. I will make that change today. Thanks for the help!

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

I'm sure this is a stupid question... but do you have two speed controllers? one on each side... or is one a voltage step down?

[smuponies]

The one under the driver's side is a voltage reducer. Couldn't find a great place to mount it, so I just got another heat sink mount off of eBay.