I'm pretty sure it's a 2000. But is it a PDS or not?

[TGJR]

I've taken on the task of fixing a friend's E-Z-GO TXT hunting golf cart before work season in the woods begins. It basically needs a new forward/reverse switch as one of the contact studs has broken off and another one is corroded and loose. However, I'm having a heck of a time determining whether it's a PDS model or not. Here's the rundown...

Manufacturer code: G100
Serial Number: 1285390

It has the manual forward/reverse lever under the seat. It lacks the run/tow toggle switch on the control box that I understand identifies it as a PDS model. Yet on the driver side body there is a Precision Drive System sticker. I would assume that sticker is legit and it is, in fact, a PDS model but why no run/tow toggle on the control box under the seat?

Thanks.

[rib33024]

Welcome to BGW



is a 2000

if the shifter is by your knee? lift the seat and look at the back of the shiftier, what does it look like??

round and silver ?, -----or a rod running over to a box on the passenger side ?

[TGJR]

It's a rod running over to the forward/reverse switch on the passenger side.


Thanks for the welcome. Whole lot of useful information over here.

[scottyb]

TGJR, welcome to BGW

Your cart is a Series cart. The switch handle is connected to a linkage rod which connects to the actual Forward / Reverse switch bolted to the floor under the passenger side of the seat.... Correct?

If one of the studs has melted or gotten hot enough to melt the housing, leaving the stud tilted at an angle, then you are correct you need a new switch.

Replacing with a stock switch is going to result in the same problem down the road. There is a heat build up caused by resistance to amperage flow. The motor is trying to draw more amperage than the components can deliver.

For the switch I suggest a new housing with a HD switch cam installed. My ultra-cool F&R is your best bet but, your heat problems may extend to other components of the drive system.
I'll explain more after you confirm the series F&R switch in your cart (Likely newer body installed if so)

However there was an oddball 2000 pds cart made... we need a count of the # pins in the top plug on the controller to be sure.....

[TGJR]

Originally Posted by scottyb

TGJR, welcome to BGW

Your cart is a Series cart. The switch handle is connected to a linkage rod which connects to the actual Forward / Reverse switch bolted to the floor under the passenger side of the seat.... Correct?

If one of the studs has melted or gotten hot enough to melt the housing, leaving the stud tilted at an angle, then you are correct you need a new switch.

Replacing with a stock switch is going to result in the same problem down the road. There is a heat build up caused by resistance to amperage flow. The motor is trying to draw more amperage than the components can deliver.

For the switch I suggest a new housing with a HD switch cam installed. My ultra-cool F&R is your best bet but, your heat problems may extend to other components of the drive system.
I'll explain more after you confirm the series F&R switch in your cart (Likely newer body installed if so)

However there was an oddball 2000 pds cart made... we need a count of the # pins in the top plug on the controller to be sure.....

That's correct. The wiring harness at the top of the controller shows 6 spots with 4 being used by (left to right) white, black, orange and red wires. The last 2 spots are open.

[rabbitreborn]

more than likely the body on that cart was replaced with a used body that happens to have the Precision Drive System sticker on it.

Bottom line, if there is no toggle switch it is not a sepex cart. Both the DCS and PDS models (the Sepex models) have to have that toggle switch to "break" the power connection for servicing or they risk doing damage to the controllers.

[TGJR]

Originally Posted by rabbitreborn

more than likely the body on that cart was replaced with a used body that happens to have the Precision Drive System sticker on it.

That makes sense.

Originally Posted by rabbitreborn

Bottom line, if there is no toggle switch it is not a sepex cart. Both the DCS and PDS models (the Sepex models) have to have that toggle switch to "break" the power connection for servicing or they risk doing damage to the controllers.

Thanks.




scottyb, I took a look at your ultra cool switch cam and it looks like that should take care of the issues I have. One question though, a few of the ring connectors on the wires were replaced at some point. They seem to be something you would find at a hardware store. Should they be replaced with a heavier duty connector specifically made for automotive batteries or does it really matter?

[scottyb]

My switch cam takes care of most F&R issues... the quality & thickness of the copper cable lugs does make a big difference. They should not be Aluminum. They should be thick and securely attached to the cable. And the cable should be of sufficient size and strand count to handle the loads...... which is why I sell my Custom silver soldered welders cable with adhesive lined shrink wrap over neoprene jackets. Anything less just does not perform or hold up to the harsh environment of the battery bay with all it's acid vapors and moisture.

The other 4 studs in the F&R are available also for a complete rebuild.

[TGJR]

Originally Posted by scottyb

My switch cam takes care of most F&R issues... the quality & thickness of the copper cable lugs does make a big difference. They should not be Aluminum. They should be thick and securely attached to the cable. And the cable should be of sufficient size and strand count to handle the loads...... which is why I sell my Custom silver soldered welders cable with adhesive lined shrink wrap over neoprene jackets. Anything less just does not perform or hold up to the harsh environment of the battery bay with all it's acid vapors and moisture.

The other 4 studs in the F&R are available also for a complete rebuild.

I have a few questions regarding your upgrades. Would email be a better way to communicate?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by TGJR

I have a few questions regarding your upgrades. Would email be a better way to communicate?

Email is better and faster, email me at
cartsunlimited@hughes.net