36v TXT key switch wiring help.

[Rwalsh77]

Started re-wiring my cart after a lithium conversion, ended up hooking up the wrong wires on the new key switch. Looking for help on correct wiring as well what I damage when I essentially arched the battery through the key switch and the F/R switch?

I think I probably fried the F/R switch but looking for help to confirm

Thanks

[agpfl]

I fried my stock controller when I did the same thing. Replaced with Alltrax and now very happy.

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[kgsc]

Which drive system do you have?

[Rwalsh77]

Series drive system, I hope it’s not the controller but if so, time for an upgrade. How can I test it?

[kgsc]

Depends on what all got fried. I attached the activation wiring circuit so that should help. Check each switch with a meter to see if they got taken out. When ready to test have the cart on stands.

[Rwalsh77]

“Each switch”... meaning the separate switches on the F/R switch?

I definitely messed up yesterday, ran the blue wire with the black wire(direct wire to negative battery post)

I had removed the analog gauge too so it confused me a bit. I am going to hook it up properly and rn some voltage testing but based on the conections I think I fried at least the forward switch in the F/R switch since that was engaged and that is the first thing the blu wire ran to

[kgsc]

3 microswitches. 2 on the fnr and another in the floor box. You can test the last one through the wiring.

[Rwalsh77]

Are these what you are referencing? If so, I have no voltage going through them now that the wiring is correct


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[scottyb]

The micro switches fry very easily when shorted. The drivers side is the key power switch in both directions and the passenger side is the reverse activation for buzzer or reduced speed if controller is capable of this function. Originally the red power(+) and blue keyswitch feed wires were on the driver side switch......hope this helps

[Rwalsh77]

Originally Posted by scottyb

The micro switches fry very easily when shorted. The drivers side is the key power switch in both directions and the passenger side is the reverse activation for buzzer or reduced speed if controller is capable of this function. Originally the red power(+) and blue keyswitch feed wires were on the driver side switch......hope this helps

Thanks. I think this is the issue. I have continuity on the passenger side but not the main driver side.

Recommend a whole new F/R switch? Figured and upgrade is always a good idea right?


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