Troubleshooting Curtis 1205M controller

[brett clay]

I have a 2 pg. guide that I believe has lead me in the right direction, I have checked reference voltage and it's 39.4 fully charged. The controller side of solenoid is 38.4 same at B+ to B-. The last test the two page guide gives me is to check M- to B+ with the key on, in forward, throttle fully depressed, when I do this I get 0 volts then my guide says go to another step that I don't have. So is my solenoid bad? Or can someone hook me up with the rest of the troubleshooting steps? My guide is for EZGO electronic speed control (non-pds).

[JohnnieB]

The voltage on the controller side high current cable, should be identical to the pack voltage when the solenoid is activated.
Before the solenoid activates (clicks) the voltage will be slightly less than full pack voltage, if there is a resistor connected between the solenoid's two large terminals.

If you are not getting FULL battery pack voltage on the controller side of the solenoid after it clicks, that problem has to be fixed before troubleshooting further.

Here's the manual for a Curtis 1204M/5M controller.

What cart do you have?

[brett clay]

Checked high current cable on solenoid controller side 38.3 before 39.2 after pressing the throttle. There is a 250k resistor across. F298 ezgo, upgraded controller motor and brand new batteries, and I'm parked so any help is greatly appreciated!

[JohnnieB]

F298 sounds like a date code, if so it was made in 1998 and could be a Medalist, TXT, Workhorse or an industrial type cart.

You mentioned the 1205M controller is an upgrade, if so, does the throttle input match the throttle type in cart?
IE: The controller may be set up for a 0-5K pot-box throttle input and the cart has an ITS.

Sounds like the solenoid is working.

Connect you voltmeter between the controller's B- and the M- terminals.
Press pedal until solenoid first clicks. You should read FULL battery pack voltage.
Slowly press pedal to floor. The voltage should decrease to zero, or very near zero.

If not, the controller or the throttle input is bad.

Also verify there is pack voltage on Pin-1 (Pins 2&3 are the throttle input)

[brett clay]

My cart was running just fine a month ago, my nephew apparently got buck wild in it and caused the negative wire on the soenoid coil to come loose. Not knowing where to put it he kept trying to hook it up to the wrong lug, he was arcing it across the positive cable going to the controller from the solenoid. That is why I suspect the solenoid being bad. Anyway I know I have an ITS and I am getting 14 volts on J1 I am not sure about J2 & J3

[JohnnieB]

The controller is disabling itself because there is greater than a 5V difference between the KSI input (Pin-1) and the B+ terminal on the controller.

The voltage on Pin-1 should be pack voltage. When the negative wire came loose, it may have touched the positive wire to the solenoid coil or it may have had some help after it was loose. In either case, one or more of the switches the positive voltage comes through has probable got some burnt contacts.

Start at the positive terminal on the battery pack and check the voltage as it goes through the reed switch, MS-2 on the F/R assembly, the keyswitch and the pedal switch. Replace any and all switches that the voltage drops from one side to the other.

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If the solenoid clicks and you get full battery pack voltage on the controller side high current terminal after it clicks, it is most likely working.