Charger won't stay on

[Keystone765]

Just a little over 36

[JohnnieB]

Pop the cover off the charger and connect your DVM between the red and black wires going to the control board and measure what the on-charge voltage climbs to.

If that measures only 36V also, you have a bad control board.
However, if it does climb into the 44V-46V range, you have excessive resistance somewhere between where the red and black wires connect inside the charger and wherever you measured the 36V pack voltage.

[Keystone765]

I get about 38.6 from the red and black wire coming off of the board

[Keystone765]

Right before the charger shuts off the pack is at 37.7 volts after it shuts off it reads 36.5

[JohnnieB]

Sounds like the control board is bad. (IE: Shutting charger off at too low of an on-charge voltage. Ought to climb into the 44-46 volt range)

Bypass the relay on the control board (Connect the two wires together) and you can use the charger to charge the battery pack while waiting for a new control board to arrive.

You can monitor the on-charge voltage and unplug charger when it reaches
about 46V, or you can just let it charge for up to about 16 hours.

[Keystone765]

The charger would not come on when I got it so I just replaced the board and the diodes and got it to come on but it just shuts off. I replaced the two boards with one new green board. Someone told me the green ones where junk and the brown replacement boards are better is it possible I just got a junk board.

[JohnnieB]

New doesn't always equate to good.

Shutting off with only 37.7V between the red and black wires at the control board does point to a bad control board.

I'm not aware of any differences between the brown and green boards, but there may be. I don't know one way or the other.

Try it with the relay bypassed and monitor the on-charge voltage. This will verify if the charger circuitry, in and of itself, is working.

Sounds like the batteries are very discharge, so the pack voltage will start out pretty low, but should be climbing steadily until it reaches about 41-42 voltage and then the amp flow should start tapering off from about 20A down to 5-7 amps when it reaches 42V. The batteries will start gassing and the voltage will stay about 42V for awhile before it starts climbing again.

[Keystone765]

While inspecting all of my connections I noticed that the magnet was missing from my handle would that have any affect on it not charging? I tried bypassing the reed switch and I even disconnected the red wire going to the fr switch and the charger would still just come on and kick off after a minute or so I know it won't run without that wire but didn't know If it had anything to do with it not charging

[JohnnieB]

No, neither the magnet in the charger handle, nor the reed switch, nor the red wire to the F/R switch assembly have any effect on charging the batteries.

All they do is kill the controller so the cart cannot be driven away while the charger is connected to it.

Normally, B+ is connected to the red wire via the reed switch in the charge receptacle. The magnet in the charger handle opens the reed switch when the charger is plugged into cart, disabling the cart. The red wire to the F/R assembly (on a series cart) must be connected to B+ for cart to run.

The reed switch is a high failure item that typically fails when you are out in the middle of nowhere, so EZGO eliminated it in later years. Many cart owners bypass it.