can't find rear axle drain plug

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by orangeman6

Hmm, kinda makes me feel a little silly now liking the way my cart looks under the seat. I don’t know much at all about cars, but I can tell when someone cares about their stuff. That looks pretty dang good!

Thanks, I've had the car for 31 years now, bought it right out of high school. Finally had all the body work and paint done and built this last motor in 2005.

[70oldsracer]

Okay, took off the cover and drained all the oil. Cleaned the silicone off the rear as well as the cover. The bolts threads were covered with silicone, but as far as I can tell, these are all blind holes and I don't see a need for the silicone. Maybe I missed something and hopefully someone can let me know if they need silicone on the threads.

Thanks

[yurtle]

No need. Probably some just oozed onto the bolts and holes during installation.

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by yurtle

No need. Probably some just oozed onto the bolts and holes during installation.

Thanks

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Unfortunately, the "drain/fill" plug isn't located at the lowest part of the sump, so it won't drain the pan.

Fortunately, the differential oil only needs to be charged every five years or so.

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For unknown reasons, EZGO used SAE-30 motor oil to lubricate gears.
Some people replace the motor oil with gear oil while other use a 80/20 mix of motor oil and STP.

I'm currently using 90W-140 gear oil, but will be going to full synthetic 75W-90 gear oil the next time I change it. BTW: SAE-90 gear oil has about the same viscosity as SAE-30 motor oil.

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Some people put 10oz of oil in the pan and do a balancing act to install it without spilling. I install the pan dry and fill it through the "fill" plug. I also tilt the cart axle so I can pump more than 10oz of gear oil in the pan before it starts leaking out of the fill hole.

I use a fluid transfer punp something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Access...utomotive&th=1

Any particular reason you went with the 90W-140 gear oil instead of the 80-90?

[dundeebarnbuggy]

If you want a quick and easy drain plug, just buy or scrounge a STEEL pipe union of the desired size, cut in half, weld it to the cover at the desired place, drill through the newly fixed "bung" and tighten a pipe plug in the union and done. About a 20 min job at the most.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by 70oldsracer

Any particular reason you went with the 90W-140 gear oil instead of the 80-90?

I ended up with some whining and clunking emanating from the motor/differential area after I replaced the stock PDS motor, which I exploded and slid to a stop from about 33MPH on 17" tall tires (motor was overheated and spinning over 8k before it seized).

Had the new motor checked by D&D and replaced the bearings on the input shaft. Still had the whine, so I put in the heavier gear oil to see if it would quiet it down some. It helped a little, but it still sounds like a a siren when I get much above 26MPH, so I've got the XCT set to RPM limited the motor to 6500RPM (~26MPH).

My plan was to run it until whatever was making failed, or the noise got bad enough to locate it without hanging off the cart at speed. It is quiet when on jack stands.

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by dundeebarnbuggy

If you want a quick and easy drain plug, just buy or scrounge a STEEL pipe union of the desired size, cut in half, weld it to the cover at the desired place, drill through the newly fixed "bung" and tighten a pipe plug in the union and done. About a 20 min job at the most.

Exactly what I was thinking about doing. When I put the stock gas tank back in my 442, I had to weld in a 1/2" pipe bung for the fuel pump return line. I ended up making the bung on the lathe. I made it with a little flange so I could just drop it in the hole I drilled and just weld the flange to the gas tank. a lot easier than trying to hold it in place as I weld. I don't claim to be the best welder, but as long as it holds and it doesn't leak, i'm fine with that.