DS - Worth it?

[Marsharo]

I bought a 1987 Gas DS, I beleive it is a 295CC, single cyl. It has a suck piston, however the crank pully freely moves about 180*. To me, it feels like a broken connecting rod. I have experience with large automotive engines, however I have absolutely 0 golf cart motor experience. The aluminum frame is traight and in really good shape.

I paid $250.00 for this cart and came with a windshield, roof, and cavas cover. Stock suspension and tires.

I have considered just swapping out the motor as a unit; however I am not into dumping more money into this cart than in nessessary to make it operable again.

What is the first thing I need to know if I go down the route of replacing the broken Rod (if thats what it is)?
Did I get ripped? I assumed I could part it out for my money back.

[invalidsession]

Originally Posted by Marsharo

I bought a 1987 Gas DS, I beleive it is a 295CC, single cyl. It has a suck piston, however the crank pully freely moves about 180*. To me, it feels like a broken connecting rod. I have experience with large automotive engines, however I have absolutely 0 golf cart motor experience. The aluminum frame is traight and in really good shape.

I paid $250.00 for this cart and came with a windshield, roof, and cavas cover. Stock suspension and tires.

I have considered just swapping out the motor as a unit; however I am not into dumping more money into this cart than in nessessary to make it operable again.

What is the first thing I need to know if I go down the route of replacing the broken Rod (if thats what it is)?
Did I get ripped? I assumed I could part it out for my money back.

I guess it depends on the internal damage that the broken rod rod may have caused doesn't it ? Idle speculation will lead you nowhere and no one here or anywhere could speculate as to the damage.
Why not pull the motor and check the guts of the system ? As to getting your your money back, that just depends on how many folks in your area need the parts and accessories you have but I'll guarantee you'll have a pile of bits left on your shop floor.
Clone motor might be an option but I'd open that crankcase first before making that decision.


Chris.

[fabricatorjay]

its a 341 flathead,im workin on 1 now,dont know if I should bebuild or buy a clone 420 or a 390 Honda

[Springbok]

You didn't get ripped. A cart like that with a blown motor is well worth $250. Motorless gas Club Cars around here can fetch $350-$400 pretty easily. Yeah, yank that motor out and see what the problem is. These motors are very simple and easy to work on. But parts are expensive.

[Marsharo]

Springbok,
I have been told by 1 mechanic that I need a special tool to remove the clutch wheel and another told me I don't... I am not a newbie mechanic but I am new to golf cart motors. Any special tricks to tearing these down?

[Springbok]

Since your cart is an '87 they're actually both right. 1987 was a changeover year for the clutches.


If your drive clutch looks like the this, you need the special tool:




If it looks like this, you still need a "special tool" but you can make one easily from stuff you can buy at the hardware store:



If you have the clutch in the first pic, youll need to either borrow the tool (it just looks like a long bolt) or buy one, its about $40-$50.

If you have the clutch in the second pic, I'll tell you how to make the "special tool". Less than $10 is needed.

[Marsharo]

It is definitely the first clutch.

[Springbok]

This is the tool you need. I know it's listed as 1988+, but like I said, 1987 was a crossover year, so it's safer for most manufacturers to just list the puller for 1988+ just in case someone has an '87 with the clutch in my second picture. If your cart has the clutch in my first pic, you need to borrow or buy this tool:

http://www.cartpartsplus.com/club-ca...ch=clutch-tool

[Anthen27]

I made a clutch tool for the clutch (springbok) is referring to as needing the "special tool" to remove very easily by using a 7/16" fine thread 16 tpi bolt 1 1/2 inches long (grade 8 ) and a 5/16" standard thread grade 8 bolt 5 1/2" long, I had to cut about 3/4 of an inch and the head off the 5/16 bolt to make it the proper length, the 5/16" bolt is the pin that goes into the crank hole it should be about 1" below the retaining bolt surface of the clutch after you cut it down, put some grease on the end of the 7/16" bolt, thread it into the clutch with cut down pin underneath in the crank and impact gun the clutch off, I bought the 2 bolts needed for less than $3 from ace hardware, I have used it to pull off 3 or 4 clutches with success each time and no damage to the crank or clutch.

[Springbok]

Let's see a pic of your clutch tool for the newer clutches Anthen. A guy I knew made one out of an old clutch bolt but it nearly got stuck in one of my motors when we were removing it. From then on I just figured the real tool was a better option so I haven't recommended building one.