2010 Gas Club Car Carryall 2 wont start

[lockman1]

3 micro's on a dash shifter is normal for all CA2's,

Looking at the Components Box...
No Relay, and 2 micro switches tells me that it's originally a pedal start.

The key switch wiring has got me a bit perplexed though... It's close, but wired wrong!

Pedal start key switches have 4 posts, key start 5 posts...
and I can't tell if there's another post hiding in the upper corner,
but something tells me it's the wrong key switch, and should be 4 posts without a start position.

here's the wiring diagrams for both key start, and pedal start carts,
Maybe you can sort out some of the things that we can't see!

(Click or tap to expand)

Pedal Start:

pedalstartkeyswitch.jpg

Key Start:

Keysstartexploded.jpg

[Motor1]

The key switch is a 4 pin with 3 micro switches on the dash for the shifter and 2 in the box with the solenoid. Club car just sent a pdf file for the maintenance manual and hopefully I can get it going. Thank you for your response

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by Motor1

Can anyone else help with this. Originally was a pedal start someone changed it to key start. I want to put back to pedal start

How is it a key start if it has a 4 pole key switch and doesn't have a momentary start position?
Or... does it?

[CP241]

Originally Posted by lockman1

How is it a key start if it has a 4 pole key switch and doesn't have a momentary start position?
Or... does it?

I’m thinking somebody bypassed a limit switch or something somewhere and adjusted the carb stop to make it idle. But that’s just a guess… hard to say what exactly is going on without seeing it in person. People do some stupid things to these carts for no apparent reason at all.

[Motor1]

Someone had added a push button start below the key with a constant hot.
I have all wires connected per wiring diagram. Am getting signal between the micro switches at the dash and in the box when I push the pedal. I just get no power on the starter/generator side of the solenoid.
I assume the micro switches send ground signal to the generator side of the solenoid but no luck.

[meimk]

Yes, the microswitches are part of the circuit providing ground to the solenoid small terminal with the orange wire. That ground provided when you step on the pedal either:1) in gear in "run" position or 2) in neutral while in "maintenance" position. If you have 12v + on the blue & ground on the orange the solenoid should click and pass power across the big terminals on to the starter/ generator.

[Motor1]

I get a positive 12v on both small posts on the solenoid even when I press the pedal. So apparently the orange wire is not providing ground.

[CP241]

So we have successfully circled back to page 1 of this post.

Originally Posted by CP241

Sorry just re-read your last post. You said no ground at the orange. My fault.


If all that is good, then follow the circuit back and see where you’re losing ground. It should go from the orange solenoid wire to the orange wire at the pedal microswitch. On the other side of that microswitch it is green where it runs to the service mode microswitch. From there it runs into the black wire which runs straight to ground.

Just use your meter set to continuity so it beeps if you touch the probes together. Hook one probe to the negative battery terminal and check each of those wires (orange, green, black) for continuity to ground. All 3 of them should beep with key switch turned ON and pedal depressed.

If none of them beep then the black wire is not grounded and it should be.

[Motor1]

Lol, I lost track between the post. I will try that in the morning and report back.
Thanks

[Motor1]

The test of the wires revealed. That I have continuity to the black wire on the pedal switch but not on green or orange wire. This is a 2010 carryall 2 with 3 switches on the dash and 2 at the pedal