First shot at painting cart

[eyeage]

Hey all,

I bought a cart that I'm in the process of rehabbing/building. 2016 G29. It's the wonderful tan color. I'm going to paint it white, and have already ordered coordinating seat covers.

I've purchased a Fuji Q4 (4 stage turbine) for the project, as I hope this to be the first of many. I've been watching and reading a ton of info. I'm planning to use plain old white (though I think pearl or metallic would be better).

I've seen an array of suggestions - we'll say that all start with red scotch brite > wax and grease remover.

- adhesion promoter(AP) > epoxy primer > filler primer > wet sand > BC > CC
- AP > filler primer > wetsand > BC > CC
- AP > BC > CC
- AP > single stage
- AP > single stage > CC
- rattle cans

I want something that will look sharp and will allow me to repair a few scratches/gouges (purchased bondo glazing putty). I would like to stay around the $100 mark. Optimally, I think BC/CC would be preferred as it seems it would allow for more chances to fix errors. But I'd like someone who knows to give me their opinion. The videos on this are either rattle can or high end full-on paint job (I prefer the latter).

So, Which method? One of the above, or something else?
Which paint Single vs Two Part?
Urethane vs Enamel?

I'm fairly meticulous and a quick study. Painted a few cars with my dad as a kid and have a fair grasp on the method (though not tuning the gun).

Thanks for the help.

[Lochlin]

I restore vintage carts of which I am currently getting ready to paint my 10th one. Here is a link to one of my restore threads that has some pics of my son and I painting:

https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=153083


I have found that the primer process really doesn't matter much. On my first couple of carts I used paint shop primer. After getting to know the paint shop guys some they informed me that rattle can primer would produce just about the same results as the expensive stuff. I made the transition and they were right. I, literally, use Walmart primer and have been happy with it. The key is, once the primer is dry, go over the cart with a light grit paper, wet. You will easily see how the "rough" texture left by the rattle can will get to glass smooth without much effort.

Regarding paint, rattle cans simply won't give you a nice smooth finish and won't last nearly as long. Auto paint is way more durable and holds up way better to the inevitable pebble strikes and random things dropping on your cart. Personally, I have settled on single stage paint. Really, that's just a lazy thing on my part, though. Multiple layers of clear will protect things better, of course. I just don't want to get that involved for a golf cart. I have used both urethane and enamel paints and don't see much difference between them.

Regarding equipment, I actually go cheap with paint guns because, rather than cleaning them, I just throw them away when done. If you have never painted with car paint before, you will see that it's incredibly sticky and won't come off anything it's on without a fight. Cleaning those guns is a pain and requires chemicals. Most guns atomize at the same rates and the real difference is being able to tear apart and clean / different nozzles and such. Rather than messing around I just get a low end gun, $30 - $40, and toss it when I am done rather than using chemicals to clean it. The results have been fine.

Atomized paint coming out of a paint gun is extremely light and airy. Cover things that are close in proximity to your paint area. I paint in my garage and it's fine. You'll need to open the door as that paint is so fine that it will fog everything up pretty quickly if in an enclosed area.

You will need an N-95 mask, goggles and a hoodie to cover your hair. That paint takes days to wear off bare skin. If you go single stage, note that it takes an hour or two for the clear to emerge. When you first spray your cart may look just a bit dull. After an hour or two, though, man does the clear pop. It's like a magic trick.

Depending on weather, the paint may be "soft" and not fully cured for several days. Don't get me wrong, it will be dry to the touch but susceptible to scratching for a few days. Just be careful during that time. After that, it will be rock hard and you are good to go.

[cbdeese61]

I agree with the cheap paint gun advice. I actually use the purple gun from Harbor Freight....$15.00 normal price and sometimes $10.00 with a coupon. It works fantastic.

[eyeage]

Originally Posted by Lochlin

I restore vintage carts of which I am currently getting ready to paint my 10th one. Here is a link to one of my restore threads that has some pics of my son and I painting:

https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=153083


I have found that the primer process really doesn't matter much. On my first couple of carts I used paint shop primer. After getting to know the paint shop guys some they informed me that rattle can primer would produce just about the same results as the expensive stuff. I made the transition and they were right. I, literally, use Walmart primer and have been happy with it. The key is, once the primer is dry, go over the cart with a light grit paper, wet. You will easily see how the "rough" texture left by the rattle can will get to glass smooth without much effort.

Regarding paint, rattle cans simply won't give you a nice smooth finish and won't last nearly as long. Auto paint is way more durable and holds up way better to the inevitable pebble strikes and random things dropping on your cart. Personally, I have settled on single stage paint. Really, that's just a lazy thing on my part, though. Multiple layers of clear will protect things better, of course. I just don't want to get that involved for a golf cart. I have used both urethane and enamel paints and don't see much difference between them.

Regarding equipment, I actually go cheap with paint guns because, rather than cleaning them, I just throw them away when done. If you have never painted with car paint before, you will see that it's incredibly sticky and won't come off anything it's on without a fight. Cleaning those guns is a pain and requires chemicals. Most guns atomize at the same rates and the real difference is being able to tear apart and clean / different nozzles and such. Rather than messing around I just get a low end gun, $30 - $40, and toss it when I am done rather than using chemicals to clean it. The results have been fine.

Atomized paint coming out of a paint gun is extremely light and airy. Cover things that are close in proximity to your paint area. I paint in my garage and it's fine. You'll need to open the door as that paint is so fine that it will fog everything up pretty quickly if in an enclosed area.

You will need an N-95 mask, goggles and a hoodie to cover your hair. That paint takes days to wear off bare skin. If you go single stage, note that it takes an hour or two for the clear to emerge. When you first spray your cart may look just a bit dull. After an hour or two, though, man does the clear pop. It's like a magic trick.

Depending on weather, the paint may be "soft" and not fully cured for several days. Don't get me wrong, it will be dry to the touch but susceptible to scratching for a few days. Just be careful during that time. After that, it will be rock hard and you are good to go.

Thanks! This is what I was looking for. I'm already invested in an airless system. I don't have the garage space for a big compressor. So you're using cheapo primer with single stage paints. Which paints do you typically use? Brand specific.