Painting Information HOK House of Kolor

[ssbillet]

So I posted this as a reply at the end of another thread but, it might get missed so I will put it on its own thread and maybe someone can get some help from this information. If I missed something please add it to this thread. It is late and I had a new born on my lap...
Good Luck~

I use first:
WAX & GREASE REMOVER (KC10)
KC10 removes grease, wax, silicone, adhesives, tar, tree sap, insects and dirt. It is a fast flashing product designed to help speedup initial surface preparation before beginning sanding and body work.

Sanding:
Sand with approriate grit paper, what I mean about that is some glass work is rougher then others. You can spen a lot of time sanding with high grit count if it is rough. If it is smooth then 800 to 1000 grit will do the job. The primer will fill a lot of sand marks too. Carefull on the radius corners that you dont cause flats. Prep is the most important part.
I use:
POST SANDING CLEANER (KC20)
KC20 removes sanding residue as well as dirt and light contaminants, such as hand oil. KC20 is designed for use after KC10 and final surface preparation.
TACK TACK TACK TACK AND TACK SOME MORE...LOL
Tacking is very important. Not as much as right now but, later it is. So practice at this step.
Primer:
KWIKURE EPOXY PRIMER (KP21)
KP21 is a 2.1 VOC hi-solids catalyzed Epoxy Primer that meets all current air quality regulations. It is designed to be the first primer applied to bare steel, aluminum, fiberglass, magnesium and galvanized surfaces. It's strong adhesion, hi-build, excellent durability, and corrosion resistance make it the logical choice for the base of a long lasting paint job.
Sand again to rough the surface and to remove any flaws, runs ect... then I use KC20 again and blow it off with air making sure I get in all the little areas so no water sneaks up on my paint. You would be surprised~ when you blow it off with air make sure that you are using clean air with out oil ect... in the lines. Filters can be placed in line with your air source to protect you against those.
TACK TACK TACK AND TACK SOME MORE...!~Very improtant at this point~!
Base Coats:
SHIMRIN® METALLIC BASES (BC and FBC)
Available in coarse or ultra-fine metallic, each offers full coverage in 3-4 coats. Clear for a final finish, or use as a base for Kandys. With their unique chemical make-up, they may be top coated with either acrylic lacquer or urethane enamel.
SHIMRIN® KANDY BASE COATS (KBC)
Kandy Base Coats are a mixture of Kandy and select Pearls into a SHIMRIN® Universal Base Coat that mimics a Kandy finish. They feature low build, fewer coats, are easy to apply, and touchups are easier than ever. Available in the same great colors as our regular kandys. Due to their unique chemical make-up they may be top coated with either an acrylic lacquer or urethane enamel.
I use INTENSIFIER KANDY KONCENTRATE (KK)
When painting real fire,
Use to enrich any of our Kosmic Kolor Urethane Enamel Kandys or Kustom Kolor Acrylic Lacquer Kandys. Our intensifiers reduce the number of coats required to color match an exterior finish. Works great on door jambs, under the hood and in trunk areas. Is also great for small parts, and motorcycles, when time is a factor. Can also be used with SG100 or our lacquer clears for multi-colored artwork.
TACK TACK TACK
SG100 between colors. This will protect what art work you have done. Also gives it a semi gloss finish to see the colors. You can also mix some post sand cleaner with some water to give you a peak at what it will look like with clear.
INTERCOAT CLEAR (SG100)
A protective clear for artwork tape outs on SHIMRIN®Base Coats. May be used to blend SHIMRIN® Pearl and Metallic Base Coats, to mix Pearl and Kandy Koncentrates, and to cut the SHIMRIN‚ base for touchups and blends.
NOTE: Use only when top coating with urethane enamel

Top Coat
POLYURETHANE ENAMEL KLEAR (UC35)
UC-35 is a 3.5 VOC, National Rule and SCAQMD Rule 1151 compliant version of UC-1. It may be used to topcoat any urethane or polyurethane enamels, and any SHIMRIN® Base Coat color. UC35 gives a high-gloss, has excellent weathering and UV resistance. UC35 dries fast and hard, and can be colored sanded and buffed the next day
Let dry and cure for 24.5 hours... wet sand the bugs out if you did this in your garage...lol I use 1200 then 1400 with Ivory dish soap and lots of water. Running the hose on low over your work is the best unless you have really bad water then you will want to filter or use a bucket of filtered water changing it out often.
When you buff use a rough cut compound and work your way to smooth cut compound finishing with a glaze~ I use Meguiars.
I don't wax for 2 weeks allowing everything to cure. You really will not need wax at this point anyways.

Note to painting in the rain... You really can get a really cool effect with rain. Once the rain drops have beaded up on the base coat use your airbrush and paint a light color of your base in one direction and then come back with a darker color. This will give you that wet look year round! Here in WA it is wet most the time anyways...lol

I may have missed somethings. It is late. Hope this helps~


This was before clear and done with KBC. Kandy Base Coats and KK. I would practice before painting real fire on silver.

[TheNewGuy]

Good info. Thanks for posting ss!!

[Saltysteele]

AWESOME!! VERY informative! (the fire is t!ts, too,btw!!!!)

[ssbillet]

You know I painted this guys truck on silver. Painted some Harley Davidson badging like on the fords with one on the tailgate. I brought the truck to him to approve the flames on the one side before I did the other since the truck was going to be painted Kandy Tangerine Orange on top. He approved all the work and loved the truck. 2 weeks later he took it to Mike Lavallee here in Snohomish and he wanted to know who did the flame work since it was done on silver but, still popped. Not too many people paint real fire on silver. Mike quoted him $6500 to do some flame work but, he would not do it on silver he wanted to peal the metal back and paint black under then do the flames... a week after the customer told me this he took it to his painter to have the top done and ended up painting over all my work. 35 hours. Gone. It sucked~ but, I traded him for what I owed him on my Harley so it was not a total loss.

[Saltysteele]

Awesome job, billet! Hey, as long as you got paid, who cares what they do with it, right? (although, i do understand what you're saying)

That, is a TIGHT motorscooter!!!!!

[ssbillet]

1942 Harley with a 45" Flat head. Side shifter rigid tail... good times!

[groundpounder]

great info on paint

[]DR[puff5]

I don't believe kp21 is the right choice for plastic bodies ,but too each his own.

[BigJose352]

Nice Flame job..