hauling the cart

[porthole]

I can squeeze my electric glide and EZ-go in my toy hauler. It has a 8 x 10 garage.

Here is a pricey option.
http://www.cruiserlift.com/swivelwheel58.html

[chloe]

Duane. I like that option too. It certainly looks safer than just hanging the cart on a hitch mounted carrier. My toyhauler is a 26 foot fifth wheel. But the garage is also the living area. It has two fold up couches that become the primary seating. Each of those couches take about 10 inches out of the interior, folded up. I'm thinking if I remove one of them, (it's only the wife and myself), I might be able to squeeze both the Ultra and the cart in.

[manx]

I'm shopping for trailers myself, but I like this too.
http://www.atvracks.com/Details-Side-by-Side-UTV.asp

$1399 and includes a winch

Here's another one I like, but the price makes it a no go.
http://www.discountramps.com/pickup-...e-platform.htm

[essness]

Originally Posted by manx

I'm shopping for trailers myself, but I like this too.
http://www.atvracks.com/Details-Side-by-Side-UTV.asp

$1399 and includes a winch

Here's another one I like, but the price makes it a no go.
http://www.discountramps.com/pickup-...e-platform.htm

But if it's a 5r your bed is full already................

[porthole]

Denny, the cart takes up a 4x8 footprint, bit more if you have the rear seat.

The bike takes up about 3x7

Doesn't leave much room in the garage. My garage is separate from the main living area.

[kab69440]

What about building a gantry out of 4" channel and H beam with a hoist and storing the bike vertically?

[chloe]

Your measurements are pretty much on the spot Duane. It's an 8 foot interior, minus the 10 inches for the couch. It would appear I have a whole 2 inches of space between the cart and the bike. That assumes, of course, I don't mind the cart and the bike rubbing against the outside walls.
This could be a tight one.

[porthole]

Have you tried getting both in yet?

My layout:
The interior width is 8' (most 5th wheel toy haulers are 8.5 wide-101" exterior).

I have the "Happy Jac" bunks. These are the bunks that come down from the ceiling. The rails on the side walls use up another 2" per side.

When I load the cart I load it so that the tires are just touching or just missing those rails.
The bike chock is mounted so that the bike has about 4-5" of handlebar clearance from the side window trim,which also stick out about 2".

This gives me about 6" of room between the bike-cart, enough that I can squeeze in and tie things down but not enough pass through. When I tie them down I do this dance of in the back, around the front, around the back etc.

The bike with the tourpak on is several inches from the rear ramp and about 12"+ in front, not enough to put a cooler in front. The cooler sits between the bike and cart.
My trailer has a side door for the garage, can't use it if the cart is loaded.

My bike has "Wild One Chubby" 1" bars, these are an additional 1.5" wider per side over stock

It is tight. Seems if you only have one couch installed you will end up with about the same clearance I have

How long is the footprint you have?

And on a side note, my 36V 6+ year old batteries means I can't stop on the ramp, need to keep it rolling once on the ramp until the front wheels clear the hump.

[porthole]

To add to the above. The cart doesn't really move around once tied down, brake applied.
I cross two strap in the front to the steering knuckles and one strap around the rear axle to keep it from moving forward in a "quick" stop.

The bike is in a Bike Pro chock, ride in step off, stands up by itself.

5 straps, one to each turn signal lamp arm going forward, one to each saddlebag guard pulling almost directly out to the side and one around the rear tire pulling to the rear.

Bike doesn't move at all. If you haven't loaded it yet, keep in mind the lateral forces on turns and the center of gravity of the bike.
Probably the most important straps are the two up front, high enough to form a good "triangle" of support.

The rear wheel strap is just a feel good strap, the chock won't allow forward movement.

Nylon straps, even the good ones by M&R stretch a bit and require checking after about the first hour of tie down, after that you are good to go.

Not too tight on the fronts, allow the bike suspension to work some.

I've done 13000 miles this way so far with no incidents related to travel-docking.

Another hint for you if you haven't loaded unloaded the bike yet.

When unloading, engine off, bike in first gear, wrap your right hand around the throttle and keep your hand off the brake.

Use the clutch as a brake to back out. When going backwards down the ramp this loads the rear tire and gives you traction. The front brake will only help you drop the bike.

All bets are off if the ramp is wet and loading -unloading a 800 pound gorilla.

BTW, for those "special" times I have a 12 volt winch mounted in the front left corner of the garage.

[chloe]

Duane, I think you're right. I can remove one couch and have about as much room between the vehicles as you do. The space you have on the left, in your photo, is probably a bit more than the couch uses.
I bought my Sportster 25 new in 06. It's been pretty well used ever since. I rarely have even two bikes in it. Last time was our last trip to Sturgis.
I have a drive-in bike chock. I use it for servicing and washing. have been using bolt in chocks until now. I think the drive-in is the way to go for this setup. I never travel with less than six straps on the bike(s). Two on the bars I use to balance things until I get everthing tight. Two pulling forward from the crash bar tabs and two pulling rearward from the passenger floor board mounts. The bike rides on it's own suspension as all the tie downs are low. I would have to ensure nothing was going to rub when the bike bounces.