Ez-go pc955

[JDC]

The power supply to the key switch was bad. yesterday I had 30v and never though about it but to day I only had Like 5 so ran a jumper wire from 36v to the key and the pedal held down the seliniod would click but motor still woud'nt go measured 38 volts every where got pissed about to give up agian and get direction so I pulled the screwdriver from under the pedal and hit it with my foot and it works in F & R so the wire must have be bad enough some where that when it was loaded it failed with the 30v's yesterday. Where does the key get its power from I found a red wire which had a spade con and went to blue next to the controler would this be the key supply. Thanks for the help JohnnieB !!

[JDC]

I found the red wire comes from the charge socket is there a safty switch in it so you cant take off with it plugged in ? I'm going to bypass the charge socket and hook the blue wire to the battery 36v.

[madoc1]

yes that's called a reed switch. ez even deleted it on newer models. just jump directly to the ms on the fnr switch. johnnie does good work, doesn't he?

the upper red wire in this pic used to run to the reed switch and now runs to first pos. batt. post.

[JDC]

Yes he does and I thank him. It would have took me a lot longer with out the help.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by madoc1

.................just jump directly to the ms on the fnr switch.....................

JDC has a PC955 shuttle, which may have the switches in a different wiring sequence.
The schematic I'm looking at shows the key-switch first in line rather than MS-2 on F/R, like it is on regular series cart.

On the other hand,. the schematic doesn't show a Reed switch and has blue wire from key-switch wired directly to B+ on battery pack.
Schematic is for a PCX955 and model years 95-98, so it might be a little different here and there.
Fortunately, EZGO didn't reinvent the wheel every model year and used about same design across several body styles.

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Now that the solenoid is clicking, you should have full battery voltage on both main terminals when pedal is pushed.

If so, measure between B- and M- terminals on controller.
Should be full battery voltage when solenoid first clicks (Pedal pushed just far enough to activate solenoid)
If B+ isn't there, check for open High current cables to/from motor, Motor continuity (Bad brushes?), and F/R switch contacts.

If B+ is there, press pedal to floor. Voltage should drop to almost zero. (<5V)
If it doesn't, check throttle input to controller.
If it is good, controller is probably bad.

[JDC]

Hey johnnieB you need to go back a few posts I got it figured out and is working now it was the reed switch so I bypassed it. And I thank you for the help. Do I need to put a new diode in or dont worry about it?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by JDC

Hey johnnieB you need to go back a few posts I got it figured out and is working now it was the reed switch so I bypassed it. And I thank you for the help. Do I need to put a new diode in or dont worry about it?

Sorry about that. My head must have swollen over my bifocals from the compliments.

It does need the diode, but no big rush. It just keeps the microswitches from wearing out as fast.

[JDC]

Which way does the diode go ? I see one end has a stripe on it. Its ok I found the way it goes and the old one was good still.