1997 ez go txt 36v smoke from batteries

[donjuan01]

I recently changed the controller on this cart and it ran. But it drained the batteries quickly and when i parked it,smoke appeared to be coming off the batteries, and the cables were hot. What could be the problem?

[JohnnieB]

Welcome to BGW!

Heat is generated when current passes through resistance, so your high current cables are inadequate for the new controller.
Also, the battery connections may be corroded, dirty and/or loose.

You didn't mention it, but the stock controller was in the 250-275 Amp range and the replacement is likely to be 400A or more, so you are likely to be pumping twice the current through cables that were only marginal when the cart rolled out the factory door 15 years ago.

If you have an aftermarket controller, you need to upgrade all the high current cables to at least 4Ga and the F/R switch assembly if it is a series cart.

Tread gently on the throttle until you get rid of the excessive resistance in your cables and/or connections, or you'll be melting battery posts.

Is your cart a DCS or does it have a series wound motor?
What controller is installed?

[donjuan01]

Thank you for your quick response. I don't know much about golf carts,so this forum will be beneficial to me.

The controller is a Curtis 10 pin. The cart is a dcs.Also, the cables on batteries are heavy 4 gauge.
The controller replaced is a curtis 10 pin also.
I am wondering now if I may have wired something backwards ?

Guess I should try to get a wire diagram for this cart/controller.

Thank you again for your quick response and advise.

[JohnnieB]

Here you go.

If you're running a stock DCS controller (Curtis 1206SX), 4Ga cables should not be getting hot, a little warm maybe, but not hot and definitely not smoking.

I'd pull the battery cables and clean everything down to bright metal.
Reassemble and tighten to about 10 ft/lb (spec is 80-120 in/lb)
Then coat all exposed metal with a battery connector protectorate. (Vaseline will work)

Something isn't right or it wouldn't be getting hot, but it probably isn't too far from being wired correctly, or it wouldn't run.
About all that leaves is loose and or corroded/dirty connections.

[donjuan01]

Alright! thank you so much. Seems like it is wired rightI do notice something odd. The middle battery back row positive post appears to be discolored, looks as if this post is bad. I don't know about these at all,so I'm learning as I go. You have already been a lot of help and I greatly appreciate you. I'll try to clean the posts and wire ends and see what happens. Happy Memorial Day weekend...

[JohnnieB]

Be sure to flip the Run/Tow switch to the Tow position before
connecting/disconnecting any wires.
You can blow the controller if you don't!!!!!!

[donjuan01]

Oh man, your kidding me. I don't know which is on/off no stickers or any way to tell. I;ve already disconnected the main positive.

[JohnnieB]

Nope - Not kidding.

Whatever position the switch was in while the cart was running, was "Run", so the other one has got to be "Tow/Maintenance".

Also, if you ever tow cart, flip switch to Tow/Maintenance position.
DCS and PDS carts apply Regenerative Braking when cart is moved with throttle pedal up.
Towing them too far in the Run mode will generate enough heat to wipe out motor and/or controller.

I've made it a habit to flip the switch to Tow whenever I do anything to my cart.
It is an effective kill switch so the cart doesn't take off unexpectedly, or at least not under its own power.

[donjuan01]

I was hoping you would say that, I read another post that said to remove the negative posy canles before you do anything to the controller cover.I removed the Hoe post cable while the switch was in tow position. Haven'y done anythig else yet. Thank's again for your help and advise.