2009 Club Car Precedent TPS Conversion issues

[Gkilntime]

We have a 2009 Precedent serial PQ0934-xxxxxx with a gen 2 pedal assembly. We upgraded the TPS by using a MCOR2 to MCOR4 conversion kit. Had to splice the wires as instructed by matching 4 of the 5 wire colors and then hooking up the leftover 5th oddball colors together. Now that I have done this, the cart doesn't move at all. When in reverse, the backup alarm sounds as normal and I can hear a clicking noise kinda like the solenoid it engaging but, the cart goes no where. Any ideas of where I may need to look? I have found another thread that suggested I may have a faulty MCOR with a bad switch right out of the pack. I have pulled the plug with 2 wires and jumped it with a paper clip and this did not work so I do not believe it to be a faulty new MCOR. Thanks

[CCNorth]

Originally Posted by Gkilntime

We have a 2009 Precedent serial PQ0934-xxxxxx with a gen 2 pedal assembly. We upgraded the TPS by using a MCOR2 to MCOR4 conversion kit. Had to splice the wires as instructed by matching 4 of the 5 wire colors and then hooking up the leftover 5th oddball colors together. Now that I have done this, the cart doesn't move at all. When in reverse, the backup alarm sounds as normal and I can hear a clicking noise kinda like the solenoid it engaging but, the cart goes no where. Any ideas of where I may need to look? I have found another thread that suggested I may have a faulty MCOR with a bad switch right out of the pack. I have pulled the plug with 2 wires and jumped it with a paper clip and this did not work so I do not believe it to be a faulty new MCOR. Thanks

I just upgraded mine and have the same cart.
Where did you purchase the conversion kit? What it from a CC dealer? If not, you may have a Chinese or other knockoff and from what I've read they are prone to failure out of the box.
I assume you put cart in Tow and disconnected the battery main pack positive and negative cables before doing the install. Did you hook it back up? Just covering the basics to be sure, not to insult your intelligence.

EDIT: I see you are getting battery power, so please disregard. Sorry.

[Fairtax4me]

With key off you should be able to hear the switch in the MCOR click lightly at the pedal assembly.
With key On and pedal pressed you should hear the solenoid click behind the seat area. If so, the switch in the MCOR is working normally and you’re just not getting the correct throttle signal to the controller.

[Gkilntime]

Ill be perfectly honest. I "did not" disconnect the batteries and put it in tow prior to changing it out. I did have the key turned off. I hope I didn't screw anything up by doing that. Without the key on, I can hear the lite clicking sound coming from the MCOR, however when I turn the key on and press the throttle, I do not hear any clicking coming from the solenoid. I purchased the conversion kit from "USGolfCars.com". This was all before I found this site and "Buggies Gone Wild".

[Fairtax4me]

That's a no bueno.

Check the fuse by the controller. Should be a 15a in a little holder somewhere back there.
If you have a good floor jack it's easier to jack it up and go at the controller from underneath. Be sure to use Jack stands. (not the harber fright ones)

[Gkilntime]

We have checked the 15a fuse you mentioned and it is still good. We are now hearing the clicking at the solenoid but still no movement from the cart.

[CCNorth]

Was the cart running well before the install of MCOR? What made you think you needed to upgrade the MCOR?

[Gkilntime]

It was running but wasn't running well. It was kind of jerking when you pushed the throttle. It was showing the symptoms of the TPS problems I had read about. This was a common club car issue with this year model.

[Fairtax4me]

Try spinning the rear wheels, or giving the cart a push while pressing the go pedal. If the brushes in the motor are worn out they may not be making contact with the armature anymore which would give you a shudder on take-off and slow acceleration and little power. Giving it a roll can help them make contact again sometimes and get the motor to at least move, and if that does make it go that would tell you it's definitely a motor problem.
The brushes can be replaced, but usually the commutator will need to be resurfaced as well by a motor shop.

Do you have a link to the exact kit you bought? It might help to know exactly which parts we're dealing with here.
Pics of your install and wire connections would help as well.

[CCNorth]

Originally Posted by Gkilntime

It was running but wasn't running well. It was kind of jerking when you pushed the throttle. It was showing the symptoms of the TPS problems I had read about. This was a common club car issue with this year model.

My 2009 was doing the same jerking. My son rode it around our neighborhood then parked it. After that it refused to move. Like you, I knew the MCOR was an issue and hoped the upgrade would get the cart moving. After the new MCOR I heard it click and also my _solenoid clicked_ but cart still would not move.

My batteries were six years old and although they showed 50+ voltage across the pack I could not go very far before the cart really slowed down. I did not bother to check the batteries underload. I just replaced them. The cart still would not move.

Before checking the controller I checked the motor. I found I had no continuity from A1 to A2 and I should have. My motor was dead. Instructions for checking are here:
http://www.evdrives.com/v/images/Mot...TestingWeb.pdf

Because your solenoid does click the problem is most likely, like mine, on the motor side. So, check the motor as well as the controller as the first step. Of course, look for any loose or corroded connections.

As Fairtax4me said, you'll need a good jack and proper jack stands rated for the weight of the cart if you want to access the control panel from the rear of the cart. I use two 1 ton stands, each, as well as another 2 smaller stands for backup, just in case. Also, be sure to chock the front tires.

You can also access the control panel, which houses the controller, from the battery compartment. You'll have to remove the two center batteries (#3 & 4).
If you do this be _sure_ you do not lay the metal control panel across the tops of the remaining batteries. Place a heavy layer of cardboard across the batteries.

However, before doing _any_ of this you must: put cart in TOW, disconnect the main Neg battery lead, then the main Pos battery lead, in that order. Did I say In That Order? :o) Wait 90 seconds for the controller capacitors to discharge. It's never a bad idea to put electrical tape on the ends of the batter cables and any other wires you have disconnected from the batteries.

Then, get out the multimeter and get to work following the troubleshooting guide in the manual.

When reconnecting the batteries connect the battery Pos first, then the Neg. Flip Tow switch back to Run.

If you don't want to go through the above process you can take the cart to a dealership and they can use their "IQDM handset" to locate the problem. That comes at a higher cost, obviously.

I'm far from being an expert. I just study, follow the manual and get great advice from the experts on this forum.

Hope this helps you.