Carryall 2 Allied Lithium Drop-in OBC Bypass Problems?

[Rebelhoo]

First time poster, so I apologize in advance for any stupid question. I have read (and re-read) all 40+ pages of the OBC Bypass Sticky and numerous other bypass threads. I guess I'm going to join the long line of people who need help figuring out the OBC bypass. Like others, I've been confused trying to figure out which set of instructions to follow. I'll try to give lots of detail about what I have and what I've done.

First off, I have a Carryall 2 that I think is a 2007. I started off with 8-6Vs and when they died, I thought it would be a great idea to get a set of 4 60ah "Drop-in" batteries from Allied and a new Allied charger. I'm somewhat ashamed to say that that purchase was 2 years ago. Needless to say, they didn't just drop in, and after running into a few walls, work and family called me away. I'm back on it this week.

Here are all the things that I have done (not in any particular order - and I will post pictures for clarity).
-disconnect the gray fused wire by the charge plug
- move the black 8G wire that comes out of the OBC and goes to the B- of the controller (Curtis 1520-5501), to the negative terminal of the last battery
-cut the white and blue wires and butt connect them together; reconnect the 6pin (maybe I should cut the other 4 wires on the same side as my blue/white splice?)
-cut and terminated the other 8G wire that comes out of the OBC and then spliced it to the 8G wire with the white clip and also ran that directly to the negative terminal of the last battery

The only thing that will work is my electric dump bed - and that only when I plug my Allied charger in. No lights, no winch, no go.

My charger is showing a green light for fully charged, but my batteries are not reading as charged when I put a multimeter on them. The first battery in the series shows 14V, and the others are reading as dead. It wouldn't surprise me if my charger didn't charge them, but I want to make sure I have the OBC part right before I go any further. Help!

[Rebelhoo]

This pic shows everything from the back. It’s hard to see the blue/white splice…

I'm also not sure why the pic posted upside down... It's right-side-up on my phone!

[Jritch]

I'm following your thread. In nearly the same position as you, but with a 2011 XRT 850 (which I think is just about the same as your Carry All), with the exception that my controller and OBC may be newer than yours.

[Rebelhoo]

I will also add, for what it's worth, the little battery % gauge that Allied sends to track charge shows 100%.

[Rebelhoo]

After I completed all the mods yesterday, I put it back on the Allied charger, and the batteries are now showing a much better charge when I put my multimeter on them. That's at least a positive development... but it still doesn't move!

[Rebelhoo]

bumping for any suggestions... thanks!

[DaveMJ]

What voltage are seeing across the pack?
Does the solenoid click when you push the pedal? if yes what happens to the pack voltage when the solenoid is actuated?

The 12v Allieds you bought are known to have issues to the point that Alllied stopped selling them. There are several threads on this subject, such as this one. I'm not sure what impact the 2 years of storage would have on the batteries.

[Rebelhoo]

Dave, thanks for the reply. There is no click whatsoever from the solenoid, although I replaced the solenoid last week thinking that it might be bad. I know this is a really stupid question, but what do you mean by across the pack? ls that testing from the positive of the first terminal in the series to the negative of the last terminal in the series? If so, I will check this afternoon. I also bought a new MCOR that I have not yet installed. That being said, my suspicion is that I haven’t cut all the right wires or made all the right connections for the 0BC bypass. Thanks again!!
EDIT multimeter reads OL when pos of first battery to neg of fourth in the series.

[Jritch]

FWIW - I was able to get my XRT running and except for chasing out a 12v power issue, all is working. I'm using the 48v Allied batteries - 3 in parallel.

After doing this for the first time, I agree with your suspicion: I am betting you have less of a component failure and more of a wiring conversion problem. My only offer of advice is to go back and re-check EVERYTHING. Check that every heavy cable is properly connected and sequenced. Check that every smaller control wire is properly connected and sequenced. Verify this with many measurements using your MM.

Also - if you MM is showing OL when measuring across the pack voltage, you need to increase the voltage range on it until it gives you a reading. For example, if your range is set to 20VDC to measure a 12V battery and you measure across your entire pack of 48VDC, then I'd expect your readout to show OL until you increase your range to 200VDC.

Best of Luck

[Rebelhoo]

Thanks! I'll go back and check everything again. I may also post my OBC question in the main electric CC forum.

Across the pack, it's currently showing about .18V, which is what I get if I do any two batteries together (I think I SHOULD be getting 28ish for any two-battery check). Individually, they are all showing right at 14V.