electrical help, question, advise

[rgs80074]

Hello Everyone,

thought I would start a new thread to get a fresh start since the consensus the current problem with my mothers golf cart is likely her batteries.

I've been learning a lot about gold cart systems and I am sure I have lots more to learn.

Anyways her biggest issue now seems to be solved or will be with the purchase of new batteries and such, so now comes to the next series of questions:

cart info:
1991 ezgo marathon, 36 volt (6 6volt batteries).


I got this key switch for the cart to power some accessories:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B8HTF5W...roduct_details


I had wanted to connect the headlights to the switch along with a usb charger using some adapters, but from a prior thread I might be better off getting a regulator/reducer for the headlights. I'll ask that question in a second. My issue is the current switch is just a 2 terminal switch but i don't know how the wires are connected to it as the wires are just the same color speaker wire. what current connection should to go the B and L and how do I determine which one those are.

Second since the lights I was informed was better off not going to the switch I want to either put in two usb chargers and/or 1 charging port and the battery meter (currently hooked up to master positive and negative terminal) or/and the back running lights (there are no break lights on it just running lights not hooked up). Those would connect to both the B1 and I terminals correct? Of course also need to figure out how the back running lights should be wired half o the wires are there the other half got ripped off due to poor wire management.

here is the usb charging ports I got for her:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0891SRFMT...t_details&th=1

and/or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JMY44LX...roduct_details

Headlights:
I have these headlights I think they sent the wrong ones but they work, I had originally had them wired to the master positive and then the second wire to the next batteries positive, but was told while that works it really should be done with a reducer. Just want to know if this reducer would work and do you get a reducer for each accessory you want to run?

reducer looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0953ZQQ5Q...lig_dp_it&th=1

and I think these are the lights I have, same brand name looks like the ones I received but no model number on the lights themselves and they are not the ones order.
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-ZH303...st_sto_dp&th=1


Any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Ryan

[Capt. Lenny]

There's nothing wrong with running your headlights through that switch. I would suggest getting a better reducer than the one that you chose. It is always better to use a reducer than to run accessories from just 2 of your 6 volt batteries. There is a nice high capacity 30 amp one on https://www.cartsunlimited.net/12v-reducers.html that will work with 36-48 volts and can be wired to your key switch so all your accessories only come on when the cart is turned on.(no worries about parasitic battery drain) Then once you have that get a fuse block and wire all your accessories to the fuse block. As for a volt meter, get one that reads voltages digitally and connect it directly to your battery pack positive and negative . https://www.cartsunlimited.net/battery-meters.html Don't worry about parasitic draw because these draw very little probably less than you lose with your cart sitting unused.
Here's one example of wiring a 3 position key switch.
https://buggiesgonewild.com/attachme...1&d=1647466768

[rgs80074]

Hello Capt. Lenny

thanks for the reply but I am still confused. I really really am not good as wiring diagrams so to speak, I assume I am missing a critical piece of information about them that have always made them look totally confusing to me.

Looks like I can get the same reducer off amazon with the same fuse block that's out of stock on the website, but we'll wait to see if they are back in stock when ready to order, not much of a price difference.

As for the battery meter I understand better to keep it connected the way it is currently. however I would like to get rid of the ends on them and put the rings that can go over the post/screw just not sure what size that is as I do not think I have a size of those that will fit and not sure what to buy for that, just easier to connect and I am sure a better fitting connection.

But now back to the reducer/fuse block/ and switch, trying to figure out how to wire this up.


so the reducer should be wired directly to the switch and this will remove parasitic draw from any of the accessories? My question is to get power to the switch so I have to run something for that or does the wires connected currently provide that and the 2 extra terminals is for connecting the positive and negative for the reducer?

Then the block is connected to the 12v output wires of the reducer and the block that is packaged on the website (which is also on amazon) looks to have a spot quite a few accessories and if I understand the wiring for the block, the positive wire of the accessory would attach to the screw by the fuse and the negative wire would attach to one of the screws at the top part (not the master ground).

So where I am confused at is the wiring to the switch. The main wires (the ones currently connected to the 2 terminal switch) would go on B and L I think (not sure how to tell which one goes where or if it matters) the current switch no longer has markings you can see and the wires are not color coded but just plain speaker wire. Now would the reducer just wire up to the B1 and I and that's it all wiring done, it will have power to the reducer when the switch is turned on? Or so I have to run a separate power to the switch for the reducer and if so then I am not sure how the wiring goes then. This is where I get confused and diagrams only make it worse I am almost better just being told or shown a video. But if I am going by my understanding at this point the switch will provide the power from the main wires already to the other terminals which then its just wiring up the reducer to the 2 terminals not sure if it matters which is positive or negative.

now onto the block, the one paired with the reducer on the website, appears to have spots for 6 spots. so if i do the setup thinking about these spots will be used:
1. headlights
2. usb charger
3. 2nd usb charger
4. back running lights
5. open maybe turning signals
6. open maybe a set of brake lights if its possible to have brake lights on a cart that normally do not.

of course all this also henges on the current issue being resolved with redoing the current sb50 connections (maybe new charger too) and replacing the current bad batteries which I think is like 4 of them (bulging at the positive terminal) think the old charger is old and does not have any protections and runs up to 18-25amps (carts charger should be a 15amp) and it overcharged them or charged them too quickly when they was drained too much.

But I think I am on the road to getting it all figured out and getting everything she wanted working correctly on her cart.

now just to find dimensions of the carts stock dash panel and openings on the sides to make some kind of cluster panel for the stuff (light switch, usb chargers, key switch)

Thanks again capt lenny for your help.
ryan

[scottyb]

From my website this is common to almost all reducers. Make sure you get one that turns on/off with the key. To do that you will provide and install a wire from the keyswitch I terminal to the reducer control wire.
The reducer has 2 battery connections and a 12v connections. 12v uses the common battery negative. I hope this helps

[rgs80074]

Hello Scottyb,

Thanks for the reply. I think I have it figured out but as I am mentioned I do poorly with wiring diagrams, I just suck as understanding them.

But if I understand all correctly


on the switch itself

The B and L terminals are for the carts power itself like the ones wired currently on the 2 terminal switch.

I plan on getting the same reducer and fuse block from your website, likely from your website when this part of the project is ready and you have them in stock.


Now on the reducer:

the green wire if I am correct would be wired to the switches I terminal and that will provide the reducer the ability to turn on and off with the switch?
Does the switches B1 terminal get used for anything in this setup?

so on the reducer the yellow wire is connected to the battery packs main positive and the black wire is connected to the packs main negative.

that green wire is connected to the switches I terminal.

the reducers red wire would be connected to the fuse block.

and the reducers blue wire for my setup would not be used since there is no radio for the moment.


now onto the fuse block.

its positive (power connection) is the red wire coming from the reducer

its negative main on the bus would be connected to the battery packs master negative.

then each accessories power wire is connected to the block at a fuse and negative connected to the negative buss.

and in my setup the battery meter is still just connected to both the battery packs master +/-.

so its just the question with the B1 terminal on the switch itself does anything connect to it? That's my only real question left if I am correct on the other parts.

I am sorry if I make this more complex that it needs to be but I just have a hard time understanding the diagrams but it was not as hard as some or maybe as I try to learn more its making more sense.


Then maybe a side question the current switch is running speaker wire to it from the cart itself. I want to eventually replace that wire with correct wire should that be 16gauge or 14gauge or even the 12 gauge. I think the speaker wire is normally like 16gauge and the wire for the back running lights are 16gauge at the best but likely and even higher/lighter gauge.


Thanks

Ryan


also do you have an eta on when your kits will be available off your website again? I mean they are available off amazon right now but given your help with me understanding this I would rather purchase them from your website if they are going to be available soon as the kit with the reducer and fuse block.

[rgs80074]

Hello everyone and scottyb


thank you all for your information. Hopefully scottyb see's this and can take a look at maybe answer a couple of more questions that I had prior.


Ok so an update and I can only get over to my mothers every couple of weeks and if weather or back issues I do not get much done.

This last weekend I got over there and it did a lot of raining so not as much got done as I wanted.

we did get her batteries replaced. the couple I thought might still be ok was bulging on the sides, still not sure if just bad luck or if its the charger, over watering, etc. but for the moment that issue has been fixed.

I did clean up the batteries wires but should the wires be of varying sizes? I cleaned them up they was really corotated and while electrical is not my thing there seems to be bare wire at the ends and not sure that's normal but I feel a lot of repairs was done to get it to work not be correct to work.

So got the cables cleaned, new batteries, anti corrosion spray etc. I still have the sb50 replacement cable, housing and portion for the charger to change out cause there is not something right it should not vibrate out and stop charging all the time, bad connection I feel.

[rgs80074]

another update/question.

Now that it is starting to get likely to do the other work, I was looking over image from the website on the wiring and had just a couple of questions etc.

On the reducer what size are the wires coming out of it that's for the battery pack connection and the others accessories.

The image says to use 10-12gauge wire to the battery pack but if they are not that gauge coming from the reducer does it matter?

also says to use 14-16 gauge for accessories. The light harness has 16gauge wire, but like the usb chargers came with 18gauge wire and the battery meter has to be even higher, will that matter and the back lights are wired with 18gauge or higher, I am not sure exactly the size.

When I bought wire to replace the wire from the current switch (speaker wire) they said at the store 16 gauge wire is what was needed, should it be something else I saw somewhere that speaker wire is 14-16 gauge, maybe I shouldn't replace it as its working now with it, I just wanted to color code it black and red.

My biggest question is regarding the wires for the reducer if putting 10-12gauge wire from it to the battery pack but the wire it comes with is higher than that gauge does it matter?

Also had that battery meter question, in the picture from the website it shows it can be tied into the green wire what do you need for that a special adapter or just connect the green and it together and crimp in an end that will fit onto the key switch?

I just want to get this done right and not half way. That way when all is said and done she will have the good batteries, know if the charger is an issue or not, have the couple of accessories connected now to the reducer and fuse box (with room for more), cause looks like 2-3 of the 6 spots on the panel is slated to be used (usb charger, lights, and rear lights).

I also not sure where to mount the reducer and fuse panel I will post a picture of the only place to really do it at, well there's two on each side of the cart.

Thanks everyone,
Ryan