Looking for G16 drive clutch grease zerk

[junx69]

I feel pretty stupid for even posting this but I'm lost. So my G16 has lost some of its smoothness. It almost feels like it's shifting now as opposed to a smooth cvt feel like it had. I started checking all the usual spots, greased the driven clutch sliding sheave, popped the belt off and inspected the drive and driven sheaves. All feel nice and smooth. I have a Plowman's machined driven sheave, black spring, and belt. I now turn my attention to the drive clutch. I read about greasing the drive clutch which I have never done in my years of owning this cart. I pulled the dust cover off and from what I'm reading I should find a zerk fitting along the sheave and I should also be able to inspect my rollers. Well, all of that is covered by a metal shield and I can't seem to move the sliding sheave enough to get in there and look. Should it move pretty easily? In order to get the metal cover off I'd have to remove the bolt holding the clutch to the shaft. This is why I feel stupid, is this just common knowledge to do this part? I've been looking for pics and diagrams of the clutch itself and from what I find I don't see this metal cover under the dust cover. Maybe the previous owner put an aftermarket clutch on but the dust cover on my clutch looks like the pics of all the yamaha clutches I see. I really am stumped.

Any help would be appreciated.

[pachanga90]

Normally the Drive-Clutch has a tin cover with a knotch where the zerk-fitting is.Post a pic,you may have a Comet Clutch,instead of the original.

[junx69]

Mine looks exactly like the one in this pic



I'm starting to think this might be a Comet Duster (94c)

[Mike Mac]

Junx, Can't help you with your problem, but don't feel bad about asking a question. Thats how you learn!

The secondary sheave has a zirk on the transmission side of the sliding sheave.

[sho305]

Sure does not look like a stock clutch, and I don't know how you lube that one. But someone here may know, the internet is full of info like that, and these clutches are not that complicated anyway. Most were in use or similar to those used in the 70s on snowmobiles. You don't want to get grease on the belt, even the stock ones only have a bushing so about one pump from a grease gun is enough. Could also be an issue with the weights or rollers/etc used in the primary, that will cause them to have problems if they wear out or break. The secondary tends to react to the primary far as shifting goes.

[junx69]

Mike Mac, thanks for the encouragement. I've learned quiet a bit since getting my cart several years back. I've done Plowman's clutch kit (driven clutch sheaves and black spring) and I'm thinking of stepping up to his hot setup.

Sho, yeah definitely not a stocker, haha. It seems like this one is much more powerful as I an hardly slide it by hand. With the belt on the clutch moves smooth but with it off I see a bit of jerkyness to it. As the motor revs it closes quickly and smoothly but its on the decel that you can see it move less smoothly. Like I said though, its much smoother with the belt on and that makes sense, i'm sure with no belt there's not as much resistance except for the spring in the clutch but with the belt its a ton more force pushing out on it.

[sho305]

The aftermarket primaries have springs in them, the yamaha primaries do not except the original G1 clutch. With a spring in the primary you don't need a huge spring in the secondary like they sell for yamahas. Right, you can't slide them in/out like the stock ones and they will be erratic with no load on them. But you might be able to tune it for different engagement and shift rpm unlike the stock unit. They do tend to be not quite as smooth of engagement from a stop, but also usually can takeoff harder.