96 EZGO TXT lost all power

[TXICANO99]

Want to start by saying Hello to everyone!! And thank you guys for welcoming to the forum!

I'm not sure if this has happened to anyone before, I purchased the cart about 1-1/2 year ago. Got a steal for $750 and slowly have been adding accessories. The cart had been working great till a few days ago. I had acquired a 400 amp alltrax controller and DnD motor with all the wiring from a co-worker and I had been wanting to put it on, well I installed it this past wknd but it wouldn't move forward or reverse, and wouldn't hear the solenoid click, the light was coming on, on the controller when I pressed on the throttle pedal (would flash like it should then stay solid green) batteries are completely charge, everything was working before I installed the controller and motor. I rechecked and rechecked the wiring diagrams. So I decided to test the ITS I read and did everything correctly (I think - Hold my beer and watch this!)

With the key switch ON - Forward direction selected - Push the Accelerator pedal just enough to activate the solenoid.
Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached.
AT THE SIX PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the solenoid and the six pin connector is faulty.

So last night I began to test it - made a jumper cable, connected it, and slightly pressed the pedal to check the voltage, Well in the processes of that my foot slipped and completely floored the throttle pedal and the cart moved forward! Got excited that it moved! When I accidently did that the jumper wire got hot - VERY HOT, it melted a spot on the orange wire that comes out of the pin connection. Didn't know that they were touching and LOST ALL POWER. No power when I turn the key over and now I don't know what to do!?!?! I hope I didn't burn the controller
any help would be much appreciated!
thanks

[scottyb]

Is the Alltrax control AXE, DCX, or NPX model?

[TXICANO99]

It's a NPX model

[JohnnieB]

The NPX comes with two different pin configurations on top.
Picture showing both attached, which one do you have??????????

Since the pin layout is different, you might have applied B+ to the ITS circuit.

[TXICANO99]

I have the one on top, the NPX4844EZ

[scottyb]

Good news is shorting (+) power between the red and the orange is not a problem. This would power the controller circuit board & activate 1/2 speed operation. So I don't think there was any conflict there.

Do you have power to red wire when the solenoid clicks now?

[TXICANO99]

Let me back track a little, there was no clicks on the solenoid after I installed the controller and motor. So I began to read on the forum on how to check your solenoid and your ITS. And that's how it all began. ScottyB I'm not sure if there's power, I will have to check when I get home. And let you know.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by TXICANO99

Let me back track a little, there was no clicks on the solenoid after I installed the controller and motor. So I began to read on the forum on how to check your solenoid and your ITS. And that's how it all began. ScottyB I'm not sure if there's power, I will have to check when I get home. And let you know.

No clicks on the solenoid, but the LED on the controller was coming on, so you were getting power through the pedal switch to Pin-4 on the controller, but the solenoid wasn't clicking.

Four possibilities:

1. The sonic weld connecting the red wire to Pin-4 to the red wire that goes to the solenoid coil went bad while moving the control harness from old controller to new controller.

2. The black wire on the other side of the solenoid coil didn't get attached to the B- terminal on the new controller.

3. The solenoid coil is open.

4. The diode is shorted or installed backward. (Banded end connects to small terminal with red wire on it.)

---------
Since the jumper got very hot, the switch contacts in the pedal switch, MS-2 on the F/R assemble or the reed switch may have got taken out. Also could be the contacts in the keyswitch, but they are heavier then the contacts in the other switches mentioned.

[TXICANO99]

ScottyB-got home, checked the red wire and have no power. I don't have any power coming out of the solenoid but have power going in it.

JohnnieB-I removed all the wires of from the solenoid to check the ohms on it,(I'm sure its toast) the meter showed nothing. but while I removed the wires I from the solenoid I noticed that there was no diode or resistor on the solenoid. I received the controller and solenoid from my colleague with all the wires attached together and the told me that the motor was easy to connect since all the wires were marked to its location. Never crossed my mind to double check the solenoid.

So now I'm guessing I need a new solenoid install a diode and resistor and go from there.

quick ? - (just for my knowledge) on the alltrax controller do they have a fuse or a relay in them? so it wont burn the complete controller?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by TXICANO99

ScottyB-got home, checked the red wire and have no power. I don't have any power coming out of the solenoid but have power going in it.

JohnnieB-I removed all the wires of from the solenoid to check the ohms on it,(I'm sure its toast) the meter showed nothing. but while I removed the wires I from the solenoid I noticed that there was no diode or resistor on the solenoid. I received the controller and solenoid from my colleague with all the wires attached together and the told me that the motor was easy to connect since all the wires were marked to its location. Never crossed my mind to double check the solenoid.

So now I'm guessing I need a new solenoid install a diode and resistor and go from there.

quick ? - (just for my knowledge) on the alltrax controller do they have a fuse or a relay in them? so it wont burn the complete controller?

The NPX control is not reverse polarity protected. One mistake can fry the control.
It does require resistor and diode of proper rating. 250 ohms resistor and 1-3 amp diode for 36v.
Before you replace the solenoid make sure you are getting power across the 2 small terminals when you try to go. If not the problem is in the solenoid activation circuit not the solenoid itself.