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Gas Yamaha Gas Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles



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Old 11-27-2015, 08:32 PM   #11
OgreTX
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Default Re: Calling All G1 Experts

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Sounds like someone who should be signing up for the 2015 Gift Exchange
I read that thread Marathon. But being a new guy, I thought I'd watch this year to see how it all transpires. Aren't you up to 93 yet?

Believe me I was really impressed with the engine you built for Boke, but I'm not sure what I would do with one that fantastic. Being a G1 owner, I don't think I would like to try to turn Boke's engine backward for reverse. LOL

Ogre
BTW, I forgot to mention Dave (smallblock) when naming those who have being so helpful to me.
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:46 PM   #12
sho305
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Default Re: Calling All G1 Experts

That is wear on the exhaust pipe header, sleds do the same thing. You can try to braze it up or something, you can buy new headers to weld onto the pipe that is the correct way to fix them. Make sure its done usually tacked on the motor so the alignment is right. Its just expanded exhaust pipe.

Get a $5 spark checker at autozone/etc, they are cheap and easy to check spark that way. The G1 use a double pickup one forward one reverse, as the timing must be advanced each direction. The double solenoids just spin the gen the right direction one is for forward the other reverse.

It could have any issue, like bad crank seals, broken piston, bad reeds, no compression, ignition issue, hard to say.
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:51 PM   #13
1989Marathon
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Default Re: Calling All G1 Experts

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The G1 use a double pickup one forward one reverse, as the timing must be advanced each direction.
The G1 has a single pickup. The polarity is reversed when the key is turned from FWD to REV.
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:57 PM   #14
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Default Re: Calling All G1 Experts

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The G1 has a single pickup. The polarity is reversed when the key is turned from FWD to REV.
Could be, I recall it being one unit in there but it had more than usual 2 wires for a pick up.
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:42 PM   #15
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BTW, thanks for helping me pull my head out sho305. I have two Pontiac Lemans 350CI cars in various stages of tear down/repair in my garage, so I have just about one of every tool known to mankind ... at least that's what my wife tells me. I have a spark tester, but I had to dig though a couple of drawers to find it.

Spark is ok, so I'm back to compression, which I suspected before. I've got the engine out and it rotates with ease, i.e., no compression when turning it by hand. Looks like a ring job (or maybe more).

I see a couple of rebuild kits like the ones on Everything Carts: Rebuild kit.
Are most kits the same from our board sponsors, or do y'all recommend a specific one?

I haven't pulled the head and cylinder yet to do some measuring so I can tell how mine measures up to the specs in the manual. So before I order, I'm gonna do that, but any recommendations from somebody who's done a G1 overhaul?

Thanks again for the input, guys.
Ogre
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:52 PM   #16
smallblock450sl
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Default Re: Calling All G1 Experts

OEM rings/gaskets and cranks seals come to mind. You only want to do this job once...right?
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:21 PM   #17
1989Marathon
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Default Re: Calling All G1 Experts

You can't really estimate the compression of a G1 by turning the motor by hand. You should use a compression tester and crank the motor with the starter generator and the carb at WOT. Earlier you said that you had very little compression until you added some oil to the cylinder. How much compression was there before you added oil?
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:43 PM   #18
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Default Re: Calling All G1 Experts

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You can't really estimate the compression of a G1 by turning the motor by hand. You should use a compression tester and crank the motor with the starter generator and the carb at WOT. Earlier you said that you had very little compression until you added some oil to the cylinder. How much compression was there before you added oil?
It barely moved the gauge ... maybe 5-7 psi. When I got enough oil in the cylinder to act as additional piston rings, it jumped to 155. I reset the gauge and tried again after that, and got 10-12 psi, so that's why I said I wouldn't rule out compression problems based on one good reading. I seriously doubted that the small amount of oil in the gas/oil mix will be enough to give me good compression. Hopefully after I pull the head and cylinder, I'll have a good idea on piston/rings/cylinder, etc. Right now Marathon, I know I have gas in the carb bowl, and it is going into the cylinder, and I confirmed that I have spark (I can't state that I have sufficient spark), and the plug gap is good (new plug). My trouble shooting sort of leads me to pull the head, and cylinder and do some inspection/measurements.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smallblock450sl
OEM rings/gaskets and cranks seals come to mind. You only want to do this job once...right?
Yep, but where can I get OEM without paying double the price? The Everything Carts $225 seemed almost too much to put in a cart I paid $300 for. Maybe I was right in my first post ... it may be just a "parts cart" after all.

Where do you get the OEM stuff, Dave?

Ogre
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:48 PM   #19
1989Marathon
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Default Re: Calling All G1 Experts

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It barely moved the gauge ... maybe 5-7 psi.
If you have that little compression, I would imagine that your rings are not just worn, they are gone. Pull the jug and see what's up before you invest a lot of time in trying to figure out where to get the parts you're not sure that you need.
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Old 12-05-2015, 06:25 PM   #20
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Default Re: Calling All G1 Experts

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If you have that little compression, I would imagine that your rings are not just worn, they are gone. Pull the jug and see what's up before you invest a lot of time in trying to figure out where to get the parts you're not sure that you need.
Yep, that's next on my trouble shooting list. I didn't hear anything rattling around in the engine, so I don't think the piston is busted up. Hopefully just a re-ring if the piston/cylinder measurements are close to spec. However with my luck it'll probably be a lot more!

As far as the worn tailpipe/muffler, I got a tail pipe reducer w/2" ID to 1.5" ID that is almost exactly the measurements I need. (note: I've got a tail pipe expander tool, also) Correct me if I am wrong, but after inspecting the muffler, it appears that outer shell is just to hold the assembly in place, and the actual sealing is where the hard interior tailpipe meets the exhaust flange and is held tight via the springs. If I am right it will make the repair fairly easy.

I'll get to it sometime next week. Thanks again to all ...

Ogre
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