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Gas Yamaha Gas Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles



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Old 05-05-2011, 01:08 PM   #11
Alphathump
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Default Re: G22 vs G29

I have to say that the LT suspension makes the front of the cart look really cool. It makes it look like a real suspension, as opposed to something you can't see. I would also think that Yamaha is the only cart that can do this without a complete re-design of the suspension, converting from leaf spring, solid axle to fully independent. I do worry about the width of the front suspension though. looks like the front is a foot wider than the simple lift and is way wider than the cart. Unbalanced look as you noted although you can widen the rear stance by some amount using spacers. How stout are the rear axle bearings and can they deal with the load from the positive offset you use to make a wider track? Is it a real problem or just another thing to deal with?

Any suggestions for the best place to get the fold down seat I need? I don;t need aluminum plate, just a folding seat/platform to carry stuff on.
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Old 05-05-2011, 02:20 PM   #12
shmo
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Default Re: G22 vs G29

FRONT:
I "think" the long travel is roughly 7-8 inches wider than the spindle lift. This does place the wheels much further out, obviously 3 or 4 inches on each side. The only drawbacks to this are; It's wider, and you get more water flung up from the tires when it is wet. From a performance standpoint, there is no comparing the two suspensions.

REAR:
I used 3 inch aluminum spacers on the rear of my cart, for a total of 6 inches wider. The cart looks well proportioned. Personally, I think the looks of the wider stance make the cart look dramatically more aggressive than the standard lifts. With the addition of the long travel and the rear spacers, the cart feels exceptionally more stable than my lifted G-19 with a conventional lift. I see no issues with using the wheel spacers. If you take the time to look, you will notice that a great deal of the serious offroad carts utilize spacers in the rear.

Here is a link to my buildup. It may answer some questions or at least shed a little more light on the details of the lift kits.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/lifte...c-build-5.html

SHMO
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:16 PM   #13
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Default Re: G22 vs G29

Thanks for the link. I read the whole thing (work? what's that?) and it was very good to see how this developed for you. I can see now why you made the comments you did about the spindle lift kit and the LT kit seems to be the way to go. Installation of any of it seems to be straightforward, so that's a good thing. I am curious as to why they didn't include zerks on the kingpins as those carry the load and need to be free to pivot. Did you consider drilling/tapping some in for yourself? I wonder if they've since made that change; couldn't cost but a couple dollars to do while you're building the kit so maybe there is an issue we don't know.

A couple of questions:
1) Where did you get the light kits and how hard are they to install?
2) When you installed the HD springs in the back, did they overpower the stock shocks or does it work OK?
3) Where did you ultimately get the rear spacers?
4) Wheel/tire source?

Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-05-2011, 06:20 PM   #14
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Default Re: G22 vs G29

My cart does not have the HD springs. My setup is stock in the rear with the exception of the Jake's 6 inch lift and yes, my tires do rub. I am in the process of modifying the rear crossmember and inner wheel house to add some clearance for the larger tires. I do not carry heavy loads, don't have a rear facing seat or a utility bed, so I like the idea of a softer spring rate.

I purchased my wheel spacers through Jake's. I shopped around and really couldn't find any that were any better or cheaper. If you decide to order some, don't forget to order the required SAE and Metric lug nuts to mount everything.

My wheels and tires were my first purchase. I got them through Ebay from a supplier called Rocky Top carts. I realize they are not a site sponsor so I am reluctant to recommend them here, but I actually had good dealings with them. I now purchase solely through our site sponsors, and I suggest you do as well. It helps keep us rolling with this great website

I bought the light kit through a local supplier. They are factory Yamaha lights for the Yamaha Umax utility cart, and I paid and arm and a leg for them. However, they look pretty trick compared to the typical headlights for the Yamaha golf carts. They install fairly easily, same steps as with any headlight kit. You use the supplied paper template as a pattern to mark the body. Then, you cut out the hole, install the lights and run the wiring. It's pretty straight forward.

Here is a comparison of the Umax lights and the typical headlights for a G22.

SHMO



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Old 05-05-2011, 06:24 PM   #15
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Default Re: G22 vs G29

I didn't address the king pins by adding a Zerk. It really wouldn't be too difficult to do, but you would probably have to clearance the king pin slightly to allow the room for the zerk.

SHMO
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Old 05-05-2011, 10:31 PM   #16
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Default Re: G22 vs G29

I see your note about tires rubbing with 23" tires (and I've seen that on other posts as well), but do 22" tires resolve this issue? Maybe that is a solution (along with the HD Springs on the rear) that helps the issue. If your set-up is rubbing, is it on the rear or the sides and would reducing the diameter of the tires resolve the issue? I don't want to deal with tires rubbing when I have me, wife and 2 others on the cart.

I looked up Rocky Top carts on ebay and see that they have several combo kits for tires and lift kits, but I think I'll pass on that and go direct to the Jakes LT suspension to avoid the issues you experienced. Tires will be required, but I'd rather not get into cutting and welding the frame to provide the clearance for tires if I can avoid it.

I really appreciate your help with this stuff. I usually do plenty of research before I move forward with something and I want to know how I am going to get to the end before I start. Your path is a good baseline to follow and I will try to avoid the mistakes others have made as best I can. I will start another thread after I get the cart to figure out where to get the flip seat at the best price and service as well as tires, etc. The LT suspension is pretty straightforward, so no need for another thread on that. I'll post pictures on what I get and where I am as we move forward. Should have the cart this weekend, but no time to start working on it right away.
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Old 05-05-2011, 11:59 PM   #17
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Default Re: G22 vs G29

I put 22" tall tires on 12" wheels on our G-19 with the 6" jake's lift. It NEVER rubs. I think if you stuck to 22" tires and the HD springs, you would be set for 4 person riding.

The G-22 with the 23" tires rubs at the very back of the cart, at the mudlfap area. I have a thread going on that too.

SHMO

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/lifte...id-you-do.html
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Old 05-08-2011, 04:44 PM   #18
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Default Re: G22 vs G29

Ok, I picked up the cart on Friday and it runs pretty well. The only issue seems to be that if you turn it full lock left, the steering seems to come off the rack and i have to manually push the wheels a little right for it to engage again. Any thoughts on that? Next question is probably posted somewhere, but how do you get the body off? I don't see anything that is obvious, but it can't be too hard.

I'll post pictures as I go along and figre out how to get them here. First issue is to clean it up, order the seat and springs, fix the steering. etc.

Where is the oil drain on this thing anyway? How do you lift it up to get under it to work on it?

Is there a thread with all this first time stuff addressed?

Thanks for all the help and advice.
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Old 05-09-2011, 02:17 PM   #19
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Default Re: G22 vs G29

hmmmmmm. I would have to look, but I am pretty sure those racks should have an internal stop. That doesn't sound right. You might want to take a good look at the rack and steering components to see what is happening there.

You can jack the cart up under the rear crossmember, just in front of the rear bumper. You can also jack it up beneath the front suspension.

In regards to removing the body it is pretty simple.

FRONT
1) remove the top assembly at the bottom of the windshield (two acorn nuts and washers) and the rear where it attaches to the seat brackets (4 nuts and bolts running through the seat brackets). Lift the roof and windshield assembly off and set aside

2) unbolt all the small 10mm nuts that are along the inside perimeter of the dash area. Depending on the year, there may be a couple bolts behind your hood emblem at the front of the body. If your emblem is screwed on, remove it. If it has no visible fasteners, it probably doesn't need to be addressed there. Finally, remove the front bodywork by lifting it off.

REAR
3) lift the seat bottom off and set aside. Then, remove the bolts and hinge assembly where the seat flips forward.

4) remove the black inspection cover from the rear, just behind the seat in the middle of the cart.

5) After removing the cover, reach inside and remove the 4 bolts that hold the the seatback brackets. Wiggle and lift the whole assembly out of the body.

6) remove the two bolts on each side of the carts body, just above the rocker panels and in front of the rear tires. Totally obvious ones

7) remove the nuts and bolts from the bottom of the bagwell, just in front of the rear bumper (two nut and bolts with washers)

your cart (being that it is gas) will have the F&R handle and a choke to deal with. I have never taken a gas cart apart, so you will have to figure that out. Perhaps someone will chime in.

9) finally remove the body by lifting up....DONE....should take you maybe a 1/2 and hour the first time

SHMO
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Old 05-09-2011, 05:20 PM   #20
Alphathump
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Default Re: G22 vs G29

Thanks for the advice; I'll get working on it this week and see what I can find. If there are supposed to be internal stops on the rack, maybe there is a removable plug on the end of the rack to adjust it. With respect to the jacking/lifting point at the rear, I assume that you mean the differential when you mean crossmember; is that correct?

I saw how easy it would be to remove the top, so that is a start. The body removal seems to be important to get it clean underneath and be able to access all the running gear. SWMBO may have a stroke when she sees it in parts, but she ought to be used to that kind of stuff at this point. I have to think that the oil change does not require body removal, but jacking it up is bound to make that part much easier. Is there a FAQ thread with some of this stuff in it or do newbies have to rely on guys like you to help us out until we learn some of the stuff the hard way. I am learning as I go though and that has to be worth something.
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