Intermittent Solenoid Clicking On and Off

[Caseyrollins08]

I just wanted to make sure I made you aware of the obc removal just in case it would’ve changed something.

First test I got 51.6 volts on the small post on the solenoid with the yellow wire. With the f/r lever in forward, red probe on the main positive and the black probe on the solenoid.

Second test. With the black probe on the main negative of the pack and the red probe on the other small post on the solenoid I got nothing. I only have 1 wire on that post which is solid red.

Thank you Nole

[NoleFan4Ever]

There is your problem. You have lost the positive permissive for solenoid activation. Here is the drawing that should be for your cart. Trace back and see where you are loosing power at as there lies your problem. The solenoid needs 48v + to activate.

[NoleFan4Ever]

And on some of the '01/'02 Carryalls and others, there was only a single Red wire that went to the small post of the solenoid. In this application, the white and black trace wire was connected to it prior to the solenoid via a sonic weld. Its purpose was to activate the solenoid 48v + and the controller pin #1 at the same time.

[Caseyrollins08]

I’m sure this is another dumb question but maybe for those “other” people on the forum that it might help... Ha

Do I just have the key on probe each wire until I don’t get 48 volts? Or just test each 3 of those components? Key switch, f/r , and throttle?

[NoleFan4Ever]

I like to go backwards. I start at the solenoid small post or terminal with the key On, in Fwd and Go Pedal depressed (cart jacked up) and work backwards until I find a broken wire, ground, or voltage...

A 48v test light is GREAT for this as it has the ground wire you can place on B- or pack negative and then a piercing probe for pressing into the terminal points or thru the wire insulation.

[Caseyrollins08]

I tested the 2 red wires that turn into 1 white and black stripe wire and I have zero volts with the black probe on the main negative and the red needle probe in the white and black striped wire in three different locations all the way to the F/R switch.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Lol! Then keep going.... Follow the drawing and the instructions I gave you earlier. If you have no voltage at your #1 FNR MS, then check the power coming into it from the throttle. If no voltage, then go to the output of the throttle, if no voltage, go to the input of the throttle....etc. etc. Follow the diagram and you will find the culprit.

[Caseyrollins08]

Lol, I thought that was meaning something with the F/R switch was bad. Like I said before, electrical is NOT my thing!!

[NoleFan4Ever]

Don't try that, you are a PM. And if you have your PMP, you have been trained well on how to follow flow charts and steps....

[Caseyrollins08]

My most recent problem is that I can’t even check the voltage of the throttle and key wires because the pre charge resistor on the solenoid gets so hot it’s melting. Even with just the key to the on position.