Regen1 or Regen2 ?

[sthreatt]

I'm working with a '99 Club Car DS, 48 volt, Serial # A9927-775849. I thought it was a Regen2 but am getting conflicting information that it may be a Regen1. It does have the Dynamic Braking Solenoid and coil on the left ( driver side ) of the controller. I'm also told that in '99 some DS 48 carts were GE and some were Curtis controllers. The only identifying information I can make out on the controller is a serial # SH4D004 70ROP . Late 99 to early 2000 were transition years for Club Car From Regen1, Regen2, Excel and IQ and I'm at a loss for just what I'm working with. This cart has a V-glide multistep potentiometer with a 6 pin plug, 5 wires used. All of the multistep potentiometers I can find for those carts is a 3 pin triangular plug. What am I working with ? Batteries are 2 years old and holding a charge of 51.3 volts. The solenoid will click on switching from TOW to RUN, and when in Forward, keyswitch on, the pedal will click and hold the solenoid, but will not run. Pointers on testing input signal from pot to controller, and testing controller output to motor ?

[sthreatt]

This diagram matches the wiring of my cart and shows a 6 pin plug at the v-glide. The blue and green wires are the microswitch and obviously are working as they are activating the solenoid normally. What voltages or resistance readings should I be seeing on the other three pedal up or down ?48vregen.jpg

[sthreatt]

Times like this I really miss Sergio . :(

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by sthreatt

Times like this I really miss Sergio . :(

I do too! I learned a lot from him and I still know very little.

As far as your cart, if the wiring diagram matches what you have, it is a regen 2. That's what mine was and they are a joy to work on....not!

With the rear wheels (one is enough) off the ground, connect your volt meter with alligator clips across the large solenoid terminals. You should read somewhere around 48 volts. Then push the go pedal and the voltage should drop to near zero volts.

If the solenoid is closing properly, there will be no voltage across the large contacts. If you read any substantial voltage, the contacts are not closing properly. Replace the solenoid.

You can confirm you are getting voltage to the controller also. Connect the volt meter with alligator clips to B- and B+ at the controller. You should read zero volts, then push the go pedal and you should read pack voltage.

I'm not sure what you will read on the V-glide contacts, but I don't think that is your problem.

I'm betting you have a bad solenoid, but then I've never won a bet before in my life.

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by Tom47

I'm betting you have a bad solenoid, but then I've never won a bet before in my life.

Thanks for the input. It's Monday morning about 03:30 and Folgers Columbian coffee is just beginning to flow through my veins but I'll light up the shop shortly and check out those two items. I'm primarily an EzGo man and Club Car just doesn't come easy to me. SO MANY different drive scenarios to deal with ! I think my poor old tired eyeballs have memorized that schematic.

[sthreatt]

With volt ohm meter connected to both big terminals on the solenoid I am reading only 1.4 volts. There is no pre-charge resistor across them. When I press the pedal the solenoid engages and reading drops to 0.0 and holds at 0 until I release the pedal and the solenoid disengages. With meter clipped to Bat - and Bat + at the controller I read the same 1.4 volts and pressing the pedal brings me up to 49.4 volts, pack voltage, but no motor response. Also, when switched on, F/R switch in Forward, Tow/Run in Run, I am reading 5 volts on yellow/blk to multistep pot. When I press the pedal to the floor that 5 volts drops to near 0 at the floor. If I unplug the main harness and read resistance between pin 8 wht/blk and pin 9 purple, I am reading 5.6K which is a reading across all resistors in the pot. That verifies continuity from the controller through the pot. No response . ALSO, Powerdrive charger will not power on when plugged in. Jumping receptacle negative to battery negative and grey sense wire to battery negative WILL start the charger. That seems to indicate bad OBC, but jumping blue and white at OBC also will not run the cart. Is there any other form of disabling on Regen2 other than blue/wht ? What is the yellow wire from the OBC to controller ?

[biphase]

Jumping blue to white should be sufficient to enable the controller if the OBC was at fault.
You should be jumping blue to white on the harness plug (female) not on the OBC plug (male).

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by biphase

Jumping blue to white should be sufficient to enable the controller if the OBC was at fault.
You should be jumping blue to white on the harness plug (female) not on the OBC plug (male).

I have a jumper plugged into the harness with white and blue butt connected.

[biphase]

After closer examination of the schematic it appears that the blue to white jumper may not work on this controller. This controller requires B+ applied to pin 6 on the controller plug (yellow wire) to enable the controller. It looks like both the blue and white wire are connected to 48 volts so jumping either blue or white to yellow at the OBC harness connector should enable the controller.

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by biphase

After closer examination of the schematic it appears that the blue to white jumper may not work on this controller. This controller requires B+ applied to pin 6 on the controller plug (yellow wire) to enable the controller. It looks like both the blue and white wire are connected to 48 volts so jumping either blue or white to yellow at the OBC harness connector should enable the controller.

That's interesting. I'll look over the schematic again. Are you sure that the yellow enables the controller on this controller ? I had wondered about that but couldn't find any confirmation and didn't want to go feeding power haphazardly. That can be dangerous. Looking over the schematic right now I see exactly what you're talking about. The white and blue lead back to the same source, the only difference being that one goes through the tow/run switch. Accomplishes nothing to jumper them. And if they are NOT the disabling factor on a GE controller, then what is ? MAY BE the yellow.