36v Won't go up incline

[LakeCarting]

Thanks Hedger, I actually left a message for a electric motor company this morning to see what it would cost. Glad to hear that worked for you, so I think I will try that. Still thinking upgrade though

[Dixie Chopper]

Originally Posted by LakeCarting

Thanks for the responses. My cart has the tow switch, so I would conclude its Series.
FYI, this is incorrect. If you have a run/tow switch it's not a series drive. If it has the F/R handle by your leg and has a run/tow switch it's a DCS

I’m not opposed to upgrading for more speed and torque, yet still interested in the core issue. Locally some people are running same or larger tires on stock rigs, so I don’t think it’s just the tire size, yet will put on smaller tires for a test (after this blizzard passes….). Yesterday after say 20 hours of charging I tested to see if the cart would go up the trailer without a run and nope it wouldn’t.

So, I had put in the shop on the charger, and when I got you guys posts I went to check the tire size and if there were markings for what system it is, and I saw that the batteries were all wet on the top like they had bubbled up/out and I had read somewhere that might lead to a short???

Thanks again for responses, I like the idea of upgrading, but I would like to find/validate the core issue then do an upgrade. (also noticed the rear axle leaking…… )

You said the guy load checked the batteries and said they were good except a couple needed to be charged..... You could very well have one or two bad ones that make the cart lose power. Do you have a digital multi meter you can do some load testing with yourself? It's not hard to do at all. Just find a good incline to get on and check the voltage on each battery while trying to climb the incline/hill.

[LakeCarting]

Dixie Chopper, thanks that's a good idea, what would be good vrs poor readings? These are new batteries put in earlier this week, but still worth checking in case I got a bad one or two...

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by LakeCarting

Dixie Chopper, thanks that's a good idea, what would be good vrs poor readings? These are new batteries put in earlier this week, but still worth checking in case I got a bad one or two...

Have a look at the attached State of Charge chart to compare you battery voltages to. Ensure you have fully charged the batteries, take the charger off and let them stabilize for 12 - 24 hrs before testing their voltage.

You should be at 100% (or above) on a full charge.

[Dixie Chopper]

After you do what ThreeCW suggests and you have verified that they will take a good charge and hold you can load test them individually. If you have a meter with some alligator clips it makes things much easier. Just clip onto each battery, put the meter on the seat next to you and do some hard take-offs on an incline watching the meter and record the lowest voltage you see.

Read this old thread of mine asking about voltage drop. Good info about it there
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...op-t-105s.html

[LakeCarting]

Dixie Chopper, ThreeCW, thanks for the added information. I'll test them out, probably be few days at least, we are being hit by a blizzard right now. Thanks again, I'll post some information when I have details.

I've been also emailing with ScottyB's about possibly upgrading after I find the root cause of this.

[rib33024]

Originally Posted by LakeCarting

I have a:
95 ezgo
36v


I was putting it on a trailer to take to a local small engine shop for new batteries, it had a setup with four --12v and would die without a lot of use, so was going to six 6v.

Can you tell us what you mean? It had 4 -12 volt batteries in it?? That would be 48 volt set up. And you put 6 - 6 volt batteries in it? That would be 36 volts. You need to clear this up. What volts does the charger say on it 36 volt or 48 volt?? I would think something is wrong if it charged for 20 hours

[LakeCarting]

Evidently the way it was setup was that three of the 12 we’re feeding the cart and the fourth was axillary I’d say??? I’m learning more about this as I go, but that is how it was setup by a local small engine shop I bout it from and seems how the local COOP does their carts to save on battery cost even though they don’t last as long.

I took these pics of them when I had it apart doing the cosmetic stuff.

[LakeCarting]

RIB33024, does the layout in the pics look right for a 36V setup?

[JohnnieB]

As shown in picture #2, all four of the 12V batteries are connected in series, so you have a 48V battery pack.

Remove the environmental cover from the controller so it can be identified.

I've never heard of a stock DCS controller (Curtis 1206MX) running on 48V long enough to wear out a set of batteries without letting the magic smoke out.