2009 precedent won’t move

[Countryboyco99]

So I have the MCOR 4 with the tps adapter. And the Gen 2 pedal group.
Unplugged connector, jumped connection Tow/run switch in run, turn key on and solenoid engages but disengages shortly after. No tire movement. Forward or reverse. If I turn the key off and on again it clicks again but does not stay engaged. Even with pushing the pedal.


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[Sergio]

That may be the missing clue, assuming the reading on pin #6 is not correct...

That appears to be an Excel harness (PH serial number), if so, the negative that goes to that TPS adapter comes from the same sonic weld and controller pin (Pin #3) that provides negative to the black/yellow wire in the dash harness.

If You measure the voltage from the dash meter red wire to pack negative and get pack voltage, than the drop in voltage You have at the meter is coming from the negative side and that also affects the throttle signal.

Basically without the negative the throttle will go HPD.

If that is the case, You may need to cut the purple/white wire 2 inches from the Controller pin #3 and extend the wire from the harness side directly to Controller B-.

[Countryboyco99]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That may be the missing clue, assuming the reading on pin #6 is not correct...

That appears to be an Excel harness (PH serial number), if so, the negative that goes to that TPS adapter comes from the same sonic weld and controller pin (Pin #3) that provides negative to the black/yellow wire in the dash harness.

If You measure the voltage from the dash meter red wire to pack negative and get pack voltage, than the drop in voltage You have at the meter is coming from the negative side and that also affects the throttle signal.

Basically without the negative the throttle will go HPD.

If that is the case, You may need to cut the purple/white wire 2 inches from the Controller pin #3 and extend the wire from the harness side directly to Controller B-.

Wow wow wow!!! Yes it’s a PH cart. Yes it’s a voltage drop on the negative side! Dash meter red to pack is 49 volts. Dash meter black/yellow to pack is + or - 38. So if I make a temp harness and back stab pin #3 with pack negative, with the 16 pin connected to the controller the voltage reads correct and it runs!! So there is a break in the wire? If I cut the wire and not hook it back up to the controller that won’t effect it?









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[TahoeDawgZ71]

Sergio,

Thanks for jumping in and helping. I've been at work since 7:30 this morning and I just got home.

Countryboyco99, you're in good hands with Sergio. He's a wizard.

[Countryboyco99]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Sergio,

Thanks for jumping in and helping. I've been at work since 7:30 this morning and I just got home.

Countryboyco99, you're in good hands with Sergio. He's a wizard.

Both of you guys have helped so much. Now we have solved the mystery, just have to figure out how to fix it now.

Thank you to you both!


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[Sergio]

I am glad to help David

That is definitely an Achilles heel in that harness, the Controller Pin #3 is internally connected to negative and it will most likely get damaged before the 15 amp fuse would blow, so a short in the black/yellow wire is a bad thing.

You don't need to use that pin for negative, just cut the purple/white wire about 2 inches from Pin #3 on the Controller 16 pin connector.

Tape the side going to the controller as you will not use it.

Use a butt connector to crimp (or solder) a length of 16ga wire to the harness side of the purple/white wire and crimp a 5/16" ring connector on the other end and put it on Controller B-

[Countryboyco99]

Great! Thank you very much. I’ll get that done as soon as I can and report back. I still don’t understand one thing though. I didn’t short the black/yellow. I just hooked a battery meter to it + to red and - to black/ yellow and flipped the tow/run to run and then the issues started.


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