Opening a DCS Controller

[Golfdog]

Have just replaced a pals DCS controller. From what I can gather the original stopped working after the batteries were disconnected and then reconnected without the tow/run switch being put in tow position. I have an aero electrical engineer contact who said he would have a look at the old one if I can get the thing open. Anyone been down this road. I can't see offhand how its all held together.Tks

[Gonkulor]

Oh, oh, oh, oh... Pictures! I want to follow this one.

I myself have much of the same contacts, and in my conversations with them we have discussed various scenarios.

I guarantee I can help you break it

[JohnnieB]

First, trim a block of C4 to the exact dimensions of DCS controller.
Second, insert blasting cap into C4..................

Seriously, there was a thread on here somewhere about somebody opening up a controller, but I'm not sure which type it was.
Anyway, it was potted (epoxied?) together, but not filled with potting compound, so it was repairable.
I'm not sure if the repair was successful though.
There rebuilt contrtollers out there, so it is possible.

[Golfdog]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

First, trim a block of C4 to the exact dimensions of DCS controller.
Second, insert blasting cap into C4..................

Seriously, there was a thread on here somewhere about somebody opening up a controller, but I'm not sure which type it was.
Anyway, it was potted (epoxied?) together, but not filled with potting compound, so it was repairable.
I'm not sure if the repair was successful though.
There rebuilt contrtollers out there, so it is possible.

Maybe I can save the cost of the blasting cap by connecting 110v to B+ and B-

[simple man]

I have a Curtis 1205 controller that I opened up. It has 6 screws on the bottom that are hidden by a sealant material. I dug that out with a pick and after the screws were out, the innards just slid out. Yours may or may not be similar. I found that mine had gotten water in it, but I could see nothing wrong other than some corrosion on the circuit board. Cleaning that off made no difference in the operation, so not being an electronics whiz, I just put it back together and am saving it to either have rebuilt professionally, or for use as a core. " If it was assembled it can be disassembled "!

I just had a thought, your controller may not be bad. Someone here will know if you blew it or not, and if there is a reset or something else to reprogram it. I can't believe just unhooking the power could damage a controller. I'm not at all familiar with your system, though. Good Luck! :)

[powermgr]

I have a AERO golf cart also. My problem is simpler, I hope. I replaced the batteries and now the lights don't work. Do you think is would have to do with the controller also.
The bulbs check out oK.
Do you know where we can get a diagram of the wiring for this thing?
Ray

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by powermgr

I have a AERO golf cart also. My problem is simpler, I hope. I replaced the batteries and now the lights don't work. Do you think is would have to do with the controller also.
The bulbs check out oK.
Do you know where we can get a diagram of the wiring for this thing?
Ray

This is a common compliant usually the cause is a dangling wire. In the future, I would make a quick sketch of the battery pack and note how many of what color wires connected where. Otherwise if everything is connected it may be connected incorrectly and/or an in line fuse may be present and blown?

Anyway this is a very hidden and unrelated place for you to seek help with this problem.
You will find more help in the 'all other electric cart' section

[yurtle]

My 1998 stock TXT series controller had two long "snaps" on the two sides, which can be released with a lot of effort and several thin and thick screwdrivers.