F & R Switch

[SimpleMan]

Since I upgraded my F&R cam and installed my digital volt meter, I notice that now my voltage drops off when I shift from forward to reverse or vice versa. I never noticed this before. Is the F&R switch supposed to be break then make or do I have something installed wrong?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by SimpleMan

Since I upgraded my F&R cam and installed my digital volt meter, I notice that now my voltage drops off when I shift from forward to reverse or vice versa. I never noticed this before. Is the F&R switch supposed to be break then make or do I have something installed wrong?

Yes, the F&R is a rotary make & break type switch. You must be drawing on that circuit. There are other constant sources. If your key is fed as originally wired to the F&R micro it will do this, usually on a conversion I simply fuse a 48v positive supply from the pack to the key. This will give a constant supply. Is your solenoid clicking in and out when you shift direction too?

[SimpleMan]

I never switch directions with my foot on the accelerator so my solenoid is not energized when I shift directions. If you are asking if it clicks while shifting and foot off accelerator then no, I dont hear any clicking.

Edit: as far as I know it is factory wired.

[scottyb]

You can try bypassing the F&R micros as I said earlier if you want. That will give you a constant supply at the key.

[SimpleMan]

Ok thanks. I'm a little slow on these matters but if I understand right, I need to run a fused positive wire from the battery pack to the constant hot side of my ignition switch. I guess 16 ga. wire with a 10 amp fuse would suffice?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by SimpleMan

Ok thanks. I'm a little slow on these matters but if I understand right, I need to run a fused positive wire from the battery pack to the constant hot side of my ignition switch. I guess 16 ga. wire with a 10 amp fuse would suffice?

Maybe cautious, not slow.
That's how I do my conversions.