hot pin conector on 2006 controller

[Broadslab]

My 06 ezgo has a heat problem around the small pins on the controller. there is a burning smell and signs of melting on the plastic connector, and a slight bit on the controller beneath the pins. Any help appreciated.

[JohnnieB]

Welcome to BGW!

Heat means resistance, which in turn means dirty or loose connection.

Clean and tighten the connections, and pray if so inclined.

Which drive system do you have, Series or PDS?
If the F/R shifter is by your right knee, you have a series cart (Series wound motor)
If the F/R control us a rocker switch on the dash and a Run/Tow switch on the controller cover, you have a PDS cart (Sepex motor)

[Broadslab]

I have the series system. Sounds ominous.

[JohnnieB]

If the heat is due to poor connections in the white plug, just a little cleaning and tightening will most likely make it go away, but if the heat is coming from inside the controller, the controller may not be long for this world.

If your cart has tall tires on it, (18" is stock) the controller is working harder than it was designed for and it will get hot.

Basically, an electric Golf Cart is designed to carry two golfers and their clubs over groomed cart trails at about 12 MPH for 18 holes on a single battery charge. If you do much more than that, the cart needs to be upgraded to the task.

What do you use the cart for?
What kind of terrain do you drive it on?
How many passengers?
How far do you want to go?
How fast do you want to go?

[Broadslab]

Thanks for the response. The cart is used around the family farm for hauling and transportation. We have had as many as four people on at one time. It has 22" wheels with a lift kit, It travels in fields and sometimes woods. It is charged every night. It's not a very fast car, and we don't need speed.

[JohnnieB]

Sounds like you are taking good care of your batteries.

The 22" tires are giving you about 18% more speed and about 18% less torque than stock height tires.

The reduced torque means the motor is being worked harder (drawing more amps while accelerating and going uphill), so the heat may be coming from inside the controller.

Your usage is a little more demanding than what it was designed for, but a lot less than what some of the nuts in this looney bin use their carts for.

Keep a close eye on the high current cables, connections and F/R switch. If they are getting hot, they have a problem that needs to be corrected.

If and when the controller goes belly-up, you might want to consider going to a aftermarket controller and solenoid in the 400A range.

Of course, that will make the F/R and high current cables the weakest links in the chain, so they will eventually have to be replaced also.