what next

[Spawn]

The main reason to upgrade the switch is this. When you start adding more amps and LOAD, the switch becomes the weak link in the chain. It will get hot trying to pass the amps through it and it will melt down. it is a composite and the heat will cook it since it was only designed to pass the stock 300 amps across a manicured golf course. As soon as you start running off road you are doing things it wasn't designed to do. That's not to say it wont do it but you are placing more stress on a system that wasn't designed for it.
By doing a few simple upgrades you can turn that mouse into a lion.
I have pictures of Series carts pulling wheelies and climbing some insane hills.
Built rite there are no limits except your wallet.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by rberg31

...................
1.Those batteries are original 06' bats that came with the cart. I know that they are at the end of their life span, but for now seem to be doing well.

2. If a previous posts you seem to have some technical know how, is there a mathematical way to figure out what is the right size to use on any given parts etc.? Im sure the engineers who originally develop these machines must have some formula to that they use taking the guess work out...

1. A fully charged 36V battery pack should read 38.2V after six hours or more of rest time after being charged.
Drive it for a couple miles, let batteries rest for about 15 minutes and measure again.
If they dropped more than 0.1V (or so), start saving for a new set.

Also, measure and record the individual battery voltages. Fully charged they should read about 6.37 each and the min/max spread shouldn't be much more than 0.1V
Do same after running a couple miles. Still should be within about 0.1 of each other.

The last test procedure will show which batteries are weakest, but should be replaced as a set.

When you get new batteries be sure to fully charge before first use and be sure to break them in properly to get maximum storage capacity.

2. Actually, I'm fairly new to carts, but I've got over fifty years experience with electronic and electrical devices. (Retired Clinical Engineer)

As for the formulas and stuff, I can hardly believe these things actually run with just 4Ga cables. AWG-4 copper is only rated at 70A @ 60C, but somehow they manage to pump more than that through them without causing fires.

As for the original engineers, they were most likely overruled by the lawyers and accountants, so like everything else these days, what you get is the absolute minimum that will last out the warranty period without failing or causing a lawsuit.

Spawn covered the why replace the F/R switch cam, but maybe this will help you see the overall picture better.

When your cart moves, the same (Total) current flows through every cable and component shown except the precharge resistor and the A2 cable (Dotted line).

[Tony M]

May not be the best pics to judge with but the first picture is my stock 6 ga cables(green), and the second pic is the upgraded 2 ga cables(black).

[rberg31]

Originally Posted by Tony M

May not be the best pics to judge with but the first
picture is my stock 6 ga cables(green), and the second pic is the upgraded 2 ga cables(black).

So I kow now that I need to upgrade wires , so how do I get them to fit under stock controller cover till I can get the upgrade controller?

[Tony M]

Mine is a PDS cart, I had no problems making the 2 ga. wires fit under the controller cover, the series must be a little tighter fit.

[scottyb]

There are more cables under the series controller cover. You can cut the access hole bugger in the bottom where the cables exit the cover Don't worry about hurting the cover, you will be tossing it out when you put the upgraded controller on the cart.

[rberg31]

Originally Posted by scottyb

There are more cables under the series controller cover. You can cut the access hole bugger in the bottom where the cables exit the cover Don't worry about hurting the cover, you will be tossing it out when you put the upgraded controller on the cart.

So any suggestion on which 400 amp controller to go with? Also which solenoid? I prefer to use american made products if possible.

[scottyb]

I have put a few controller packages together here, these are my suggestions. Others may have different preferences but, these are tried & tested combinations that work well together.
As the text in the page suggests, your system is only as good as the weakest link.

http://cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html

[rberg31]

Originally Posted by scottyb

There are more cables under the series controller cover. You can cut the access hole bugger in the bottom where the cables exit the cover Don't worry about hurting the cover, you will be tossing it out when you put the upgraded controller on the cart.

Scotty, im thinking of making my own cable set out of #2welding cable as some have suggested. My question is how much footage should I purchase and any thoughts on crimping vs soldering the lugs, or a combination of the two?

[Furyous]

I too have been in the RC hobby for some time. Brushless has revolutionized the industry. It has made gas RC cars obsolete- they are lighter, more powerful, cleaner, more tuneable, smaller, and produce less heat than any other drive system very surprised to see that the technology has yet to make its way into golf carts.

That being said, I found this setup from a Chinese manufacturer. Anyone willing to try this out and write up a review? The website says it is only $30-50 usd. Looks like it comes with everything, including the rear end. AND it's DC? Weird.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/39...Golf_Cart.html