48 volt TXT charge receptacle failure??

[sonnysmith]

I think, I under stand the charger operation. My next question. Will any of these changing of the charger effect the running of the golf cart.

[cgtech]

No, as long as the charger is set properly for the brand & type batteries used (easy to set yourself with a dpi charger). As stated above, using a non-ezgo OEM charger will place the responsibility of unplugging the charger before use on you.

[offthemap]

Ok, I need to revive an old thread here..

To bring everyone up to speed on my issue/question:

I have a 98 TXT (series) with all of the mods listed in my signature below. I've been having some power issues (speed & torque deficiency) with my cart and my next step in my "purchase, plug & pray" diagnostic approach was to replace my 5a cheap-O battery charger with something higher quality and appropriate amperage output (>14a). While doing research I found a Delta-Q "world charger" (the yellow & black one) for $91 bucks brand new, so of course, I bought it.

After I received it and realized in only had one charger profile, I sent it off to have 9 additional algorithms added and have it set to #37 which is for 42v. It came back as hoped and was ready to charge my new 42v pack (trojan T-105's) but then I came to a fork in the road on how to hook it to my cart..

1) Replace my charger receptacle port from the OEM "D" style for my original 36v to system to the new & improved 3-pin, 48v receptacle (part #602529)

OR

2) Swap on my plug end handles on the charger by replacing the new 3-pin connecter on the Quiq charger with one of my old "D" style plug ends from my old powerwise charger.

The 3-pin charger receptacle has 4 wires coming out of the back which consists of:

- Interlock (blue wire, 18 AWG, 300 Volt),
- Battery+ (red wire, 14 AWG, 600 Volt, M8 ring terminal),
- Temp. sensor (gray wire, 22 AWG, 300 Volt, M8 ring terminal),
- Battery- (black wire, 14 AWG, 600 Volt, M8 ring terminal)


NOW FINALLY TO MY QUESTIONS:

Should I hook the Interlock (blue wire, w/Fuse port) onto the interlock terminal on the F/R switch aka "MS2" on the diagram below? There will need to be some altering of the original wire for this. If I don't, I don't believe the cart will run.

Should I hook the Temperature Sensor wire (gray wire) onto the main negative battery terminal for the pack? That's what I've seen everywhere else, including Delta-Q's user manual.

Now, if I don't decide to use the 3-Pin charger port and go back to my old "D" style:

- will it support the 42 or 48 volts applied from the charger?

- which wires in my new 3-pin charger cord to I connect to the 2 terminals on the D style plug end? Can I get away with just cutting the temp sensor wire and not hook it into anything altogether?

[cgtech]

The old charge plug will be fine. The new charge port is hardly an upgrade, it has smaller pins/radsocks. The temp sensor does not conduct power from the terminal.its on, and does not care what terminal it is on. Many of the charge profiles dont even care about the temp sensor.

[offthemap]

Originally Posted by cgtech

The old charge plug will be fine. The new charge port is hardly an upgrade, it has smaller pins/radsocks. The temp sensor does not conduct power from the terminal.its on, and does not care what terminal it is on. Many of the charge profiles dont even care about the temp sensor.

So do I need to connect the temp sensor wire on to one of the other two pins in my D styler plug? Or should I cut it and only connect the positive and negative wires?

Also, the cord on the charger has three wires.. one black, one white, and one green. Which two are the positive and negative? I'm assuming the green and black, respectively.

[cgtech]

Green is for "data" (temp sensor). On a golf cart charger, white is B+, black is B-. On a ezgo/delta-q charge port where a temp sensor is used, it is handled by the circuits in the charge port, and passed to the charger through the third (green) wire.

[offthemap]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Green is for "data" (temp sensor). On a golf cart charger, white is B+, black is B-. On a ezgo/delta-q charge port where a temp sensor is used, it is handled by the circuits in the charge port, and passed to the charger through the third (green) wire.

I need to figure out why my cart won't run after I swapped the charger port to the new 3pin. I connected the blue interlock wire to the forward and reverse switch, the charger receptacle neg wire and temp sensor wires to the battery neg and finally the charger positive wire to the battery positive post BUT no movement.

Is it possible to bypass the interlock? What would happen if I ran a wire from the AT&T switch terminal directly to the positive battery post? I connected the blue interlock wire from the charger receptacle to the positive post but still no power.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by offthemap

I need to figure out why my cart won't run after 1. I swapped the charger port to the new 3pin. I connected the blue interlock wire to the forward and reverse switch, the charger receptacle neg wire and temp sensor wires to the battery neg and finally the charger positive wire to the battery positive post BUT no movement.

2. Is it possible to bypass the interlock?

3. What would happen if I ran a wire from the AT&T switch terminal directly to the positive battery post?

4. I connected the blue interlock wire from the charger receptacle to the positive post but still no power.

1. That should have worked.

2. Yes

3. If that means connect a wire from the wire that connects to both MS-2 (Run switch) and MS-4 (Reverse switch) on the F/R assembly, that would bypass the safety interlock in the charge receptacle.

4. The blue wire already connects (supposed to anyway) to the positive battery post via the charging wire that goes from the charge receptacle to the battery pack. What you did was connect both ends of the blue wire to the positive battery terminal.

The blue wire is the voltage source to the microswitches on the F/R assembly. Basically, the PCB in the charge receptacle has the electronic equivalent of a reed switch on it and the blue wire is the equivalent of the small white wire that came out of the old style receptacle.

----------
When the charger is unplugged from the charge receptacle, check for battery pack voltage on the blue wire.
If it isn't there, the cart won't run, so replace the new charge receptacle or bypass the interlock part of it.

[offthemap]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

1. That should have worked.

2. Yes

3. If that means connect a wire from the wire that connects to both MS-2 (Run switch) and MS-4 (Reverse switch) on the F/R assembly, that would bypass the safety interlock in the charge receptacle.

4. The blue wire already connects (supposed to anyway) to the positive battery post via the charging wire that goes from the charge receptacle to the battery pack. What you did was connect both ends of the blue wire to the positive battery terminal.

The blue wire is the voltage source to the microswitches on the F/R assembly. Basically, the PCB in the charge receptacle has the electronic equivalent of a reed switch on it and the blue wire is the equivalent of the small white wire that came out of the old style receptacle.

----------
When the charger is unplugged from the charge receptacle, check for battery pack voltage on the blue wire.
If it isn't there, the cart won't run, so replace the new charge receptacle or bypass the interlock part of it.

Thanks Jonnie!

Yeah I had an auto correct mishap. Meant F&R switch not at&t. Ha.

So I need to run 2 wires from the battery pack positive, one to MS2 and one to MS4?

Maybe ive been confused because the old reed switch only ran one wire to the MS2

I didn't have the other end of the wire with opposite end fuse holder to the f&r that hooked into the rxv 3 pin plug. Does it split into two wires and run to both MS2 & MS4?

[JohnnieB]

Just one wire from B+ to MS-2 or MS-4. The same wire that used to go to the reed switch can be used if it is handy. (The voltage input side of two switches are already connected together with a short wire.)