Replaced batteries and now it won't go

[slammedpup]

I have a 93 Marathon, After I replaced the batteries and cables it will not move. When I put it in forward or reverse I hear the solenoid click. The only thing I did different was I did not hook up the backup alarm.

[JohnnieB]

What is the voltage between the battery pack's main positive and the main negative terminals?

[slammedpup]

37.6

[JohnnieB]

Your new batteries need to be charged before you drive the cart, but 37.6V is enough to troubleshoot with.

You said, "When I put it in forward or reverse I hear the solenoid click."
Does that mean the solenoid clicks when the pedal is pushed while the F/R is in either F or R, or does it mean the solenoid clicks without the pedal being pushed?

If the solenoid clicks without the pedal being pushed, it shouldn't.

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Connect your voltmeter between the controller's B- and M- terminals.
When the pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click, you should read fully pack voltage.
If not, there is an open someplace in the high current circuit, which is highlighted in red on attached schematic. (F/R shown in F position)

[slammedpup]

B- and M- terminals are highlighted in blue correct. Yes the solenoid clicks when moving the F/R switch.

[JohnnieB]

The B- terminal has a blue highlighted cable attached to it on the schematic, but the M- was a red highlighted cable attached and is labeled "M1" on the schematic I posted.

The solenoid should not click until the pedal is pushed far enough to close the contacts in the pedal switch, marked MS-3 on the schematic. Since the solenoid clicks without the pedal being pushed, the pedal switch might be bad, or the solenoid activation circuit may be miswired. (Schematic with solenoid activation circuit highlighted attached.)

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For troubleshooting purposes, it doesn't matter too much when the solenoid clicks, you should have full pack voltage between B- and M- after solenoid clicks.

[slammedpup]

Thanks a lot, I will give it a try.