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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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08-20-2016, 11:35 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 42
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Troubleahooting
So my golf cart died, I've followed the troubleshooting guide and everything checks good. Correct voltage, correct resistance (with batteries disconnected). But the wheels will not go!
Short story, jacked up, rear wheels off ground, press the pedal, hear the solenoid click, proper voltage levels at all points, motor resistance reads good. So I'm thinking either A- possibly bad motor ( but resistance is good!) Bad controller ( correct voltage!) Bad solenoid (voltage seems to be ggod on both sides!) Or bad pedal switch. Let me ask this: I need a way to check voltages IN reference to the negative side of the batteries! So, I leave the negative of my meter (or scope) to the negative side of the battery pack ( yes I know which one is common) to other points in the " circuit. What am I suppose to read? Ready for a gas motor, this is getting old.... |
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08-20-2016, 11:40 AM | #2 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: FL
Posts: 1,067
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Re: Troubleahooting
Quote:
What kind of ezgo cart do you have first off lol |
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08-20-2016, 12:02 PM | #3 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Troubleahooting
also which "troubleshooting guide" did you use ? the one posted in the sticky's has always worked for me http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...agnostics.html |
08-20-2016, 02:41 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 42
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Re: Troubleahooting
That is what I used, and everything is checking fine. Ezgo txt, 36v system, no towing option or whatever it's called. I got this thing working from dead (literally) a few years ago, hate to sc rap it, batteries are a few years old but,....
I'd love to leave the negative of my voltmeter on the battery and follow the voltage, even use my current clamp ( nothing moves so, no current draw). Hate to say it but that guide is lacking, I feel I'm missing so ething simple that isn't covered. |
08-20-2016, 03:47 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: FL
Posts: 1,067
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Re: Troubleahooting
Ok the batteries are a few years old, did you load test them? If you jack the car up and push the gas pedal does the pack voltage drop significantly? The tow option your referring to is a pds system cart. The pedal sensor under the floor could be a problem but it would be nice to know if your batteries check out first
-Steve Last edited by yamahaguy97; 08-20-2016 at 03:50 PM.. Reason: Forgot to add more |
08-20-2016, 04:34 PM | #6 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,356
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Re: Troubleahooting
I guess we should assume TXT series cart? see chart.
and diagram to work as you asked. |
08-20-2016, 05:04 PM | #7 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Troubleahooting
scottyb in the house ...
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08-28-2016, 09:50 AM | #8 | |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 42
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Re: Troubleahooting
Quote:
yes, TXT Series cart. Controller is the first one under the F/R switch in the series panel (Name? Part number for that one? what's different with the two controllers?). As of right now, my voltage across each battery reads 6.3V, have not charged in a few weeks. total voltage measured is 37.8V across pack. rear end is off the ground. With DMM negative attached to Battery Pack - side and attaching the positive probe on B+ of the controller, no voltage. When I put the FR switch in FORWARD and press the pedal, voltage goes to 37.7V Same for A2, same for M- When I put cart in REVERSE, buzzer is sounding, same procedure, press pedal, read 37.7V at same points. Same voltages on the motor terminals. (Motor resistance SEEMs to read good, I removed the motor (finally!!!) took apart and inspected the brushes, they look really good. reinstalled motor. On my controller, I see a small RED wire, BLACK wire, WHITE wire, and ORANGE wire. Red wire reads 37.2V when I press the pedal. Have not checked the black and white wires (yet), that is the throttle. Simple way to check those at the box? Orange wire is something to do with reverse...cant remember what, don't think it matters right now, probably does, I'm simply trying to get something to move. Why in the EZGO Diagnostic TESTING page does it states, in reference to testing the solenoid: "If the voltage is thew same as the battery voltage, replace solenoid" when measuring on the solenoid side of the controller (B+ side). mine does not have a resistor, I would expect the voltage drop to be extremely small, if not non existent, across a closed solenoid? If it did have a voltage drop, then bad contact, resistance = voltage drop, hot spot, less current, etc.... |
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