Marathon owner here

Jesel · 09-28-2016, 06:09 PM

What kind of adjusting and tweaking? Disk brake swap sounds nice, but a little spendy. If I can get these to work the way I think they should then I'll be satisfied. I have no big hills or a real need for speed on this machine.

Granger ezgo · 09-28-2016, 08:09 PM

1) made sure all components inside hub were clean, lubricated as stated in service manual and brake shoes were adjusted out as far as possible and still slide hubs on
2) made a different piece for cable connection at pedal attachment point due to uneven cable ends (new bargain cables from a friend)
3) made sure by using internal brake adjusters after hubs were on I had the recommended 1/8" slack in brake actuator arm that cables connect to on rear brake.
4) if brake actuator doesn't completely return to the relaxed position when brake pedal is released the auto adjuster can't properly function.

Hope this helps

Jesel · 09-28-2016, 08:24 PM

Thank you. I'll recheck it all this weekend. The more I think about it the more I'm convinced I'm not out far enough on the initial adjustments and that 1/8" slack you speak of. Cable brakes are something I haven't had to play with since the days of mini bikes and clapped out old snowmobiles.

Granger ezgo · 09-28-2016, 09:04 PM

Take cables off actuator arms and with drums on hold a hammer by the head and use handle to actuate the actuator repeatadly and each time you actuate the actuator you should here a click, that click noise is the auto adjuster expanding and taking up the slack in your brake pads to drum clearance, when you no longer hear the click noise when actuating the actuator you are done and repeat process on other side.

Jesel · 10-02-2016, 11:15 AM

I took everything apart again. left side looked good but I unscrewed the adjuster, cleaned the threads and wiped a little grease on it and now it ratchets perfect. The right side however, I noticed the brake cable was too short and not allowing the adjuster arm to return far enough to grab the next tooth. I made a 5/8" long adapter between the cable and arm and now it seams to be working much better. I think I'll go ahead and order new brake pads as these are probably original and they look a little petrified.

09-28-2016, 06:09 PM	#11
Jesel Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2016 Posts: 15	Re: Marathon owner here What kind of adjusting and tweaking? Disk brake swap sounds nice, but a little spendy. If I can get these to work the way I think they should then I'll be satisfied. I have no big hills or a real need for speed on this machine.
Jesel Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2016 Posts: 15

09-28-2016, 08:09 PM	#12
Granger ezgo Getting Wild Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 93	Re: Marathon owner here 1) made sure all components inside hub were clean, lubricated as stated in service manual and brake shoes were adjusted out as far as possible and still slide hubs on 2) made a different piece for cable connection at pedal attachment point due to uneven cable ends (new bargain cables from a friend) 3) made sure by using internal brake adjusters after hubs were on I had the recommended 1/8" slack in brake actuator arm that cables connect to on rear brake. 4) if brake actuator doesn't completely return to the relaxed position when brake pedal is released the auto adjuster can't properly function. Hope this helps

09-28-2016, 08:24 PM	#13
Jesel Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2016 Posts: 15	Re: Marathon owner here Thank you. I'll recheck it all this weekend. The more I think about it the more I'm convinced I'm not out far enough on the initial adjustments and that 1/8" slack you speak of. Cable brakes are something I haven't had to play with since the days of mini bikes and clapped out old snowmobiles.
Jesel Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2016 Posts: 15

09-28-2016, 09:04 PM	#14
Granger ezgo Getting Wild Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 93	Re: Marathon owner here Take cables off actuator arms and with drums on hold a hammer by the head and use handle to actuate the actuator repeatadly and each time you actuate the actuator you should here a click, that click noise is the auto adjuster expanding and taking up the slack in your brake pads to drum clearance, when you no longer hear the click noise when actuating the actuator you are done and repeat process on other side.

10-02-2016, 11:15 AM	#15
Jesel Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2016 Posts: 15	Re: Marathon owner here I took everything apart again. left side looked good but I unscrewed the adjuster, cleaned the threads and wiped a little grease on it and now it ratchets perfect. The right side however, I noticed the brake cable was too short and not allowing the adjuster arm to return far enough to grab the next tooth. I made a 5/8" long adapter between the cable and arm and now it seams to be working much better. I think I'll go ahead and order new brake pads as these are probably original and they look a little petrified.
Jesel Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2016 Posts: 15

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