2009 RXV (electric) problem

[Sclanton043]

Hello,

I have a 2010 electric RXV and was driving along at 1/2 on the battery meter, when the battery meter dropped to empty all of a sudden, and
I smelled something hot and then the brakes locked up. I used the emergency
tow switching procedure which released the brakes and I was able to tow it home.

I replaced the batteries and gave it a full charge. It still won't go.
The battery meter shows empty, and the solenoid does not click. I
do hear the reverse buzzer when in reverse. Also, the lights and horn are not functional.
I can swap the plugs to release the brakes whenever I want to roll it,
so I am thinking the electric brake must be OK.

I replaced the solenoid. Still no solenoid click. No lights, horn.

I replaced the Daneher controller with a factory rebuilt one.
Still no solenoid click, no lights, no horn... but now I DO HAVE
full power on my battery meter....but no reverse buzzer. The cart
won't move, yet I can still release the brake when I want by swapping
plugs.

I have wiggled the brake pedel and the accellerator pedal....that doesn't help.

I have checked all wires and connections and cannot find any evidence of
burning. I still don't know where the hot smell came from. I opened up
the original controller and couldn't see any burns in it either.

So now I have new batteries, a rebuilt Daneher controller, and a new
solenoid. And I still can't get the solenoid to click on and the cart won't move.
The reverse buzzer doesn't work and the lights and horn don't work.
The battery meter does work.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Correct me if I am wrong but
if the brake was the promblem I wouldn't be able to release it by reversing the
plugs would I?

I checked all the fuses that I could find under the seat.

Thank you.
Sclanton

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Sclanton043

Correct me if I am wrong but if the brake was the promblem I wouldn't be able to release it by reversing theplugs would I?

There is more to the motor brake test than just making it operate. The impedance is tested. If the motor brake draws too little current or too much current, the motor brake test will fail, preventing operation. Unplug the harness from the motor brake socket. With an ohmmeter on a low scale (typically 200 ohm scale), ohm out the motor brake coil. The specification is 25.5 to 28 ohms.

[cgtech]

If your brake made "stinky smells", Its done. New brake is in your future.

[Sclanton043]

Thanks for replying guys. I just checked this and got 28.4 ohms. Does that mean I can rule out the brake as the problem?

[cgtech]

Not at all. When you get around to replacing the brake, you will know what the problem was.

[Sclanton043]

After ohming out the brake, and plugging it back in, it wouldn't
release anymore by switching the plugs.. which was strange. I
found the relay under the cupholders and tested it, and it was bad.
I don't know if it was already bad or if I fried it when I tested the brake.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Sclanton043

After ohming out the brake, and plugging it back in, it wouldn't
release anymore by switching the plugs.. which was strange. I
found the relay under the cupholders and tested it, and it was bad.
I don't know if it was already bad or if I fried it when I tested the brake.

That relay is for activating brake lights, not the motor brake, and it takes 24 volts to activate it. The motor brake is switched by a FET in the controller. Check the fuses under the controller area cover. There may be 2 of them under caps pinned to the sides of that cover. A 10 Amp fuse for everything on the keyswitch, and a 7.5 Amp fuse for the Motor Brake itself. Check the run plug under the bottom of the cupholder assy. There should be a 9 pin plug with a pair of jumpers plugged into the 9 pin socket there. Unplug and replug a few times to wipe the connections. Motor brake wires run through that.

[Sclanton043]

Thank you! Will try that.

[smokey tennis shoe]

Any update yet? Let us know if any improvement after trying those items.

[lambert65]

I have a 2010 RXV with nearly the exact same problem. Replaced solenoid. Meter still reads "E" as if total power loss. Can disconnect plugs to release brake. Checked voltage at terminals on solenoid and seems fine with key on. Checked wiring at pedals and cup holder jumper plug. Checked all fuses. Reverse horn very audible. However, cart doesn't move. Hate to spend money on controller because based on above post that didn't solve problem.