'98 ezgo Diagnostics Question

[Papa Jack]

I have 35.51 battery voltage, same on the battery side of the solenoid and only 6.61 volts on the controller side. The directions say that would be a bad resistor, so I replaced it and still get the same reading. I also have not found a wiring schematic for the controller that is in it. It has the A2 bar, but it also has a 4th 1/4" connector, with the wire going to the forward micro switch. The cart does nothing when turned on. I am working on it after someone else.

[kernal]

This one maybe?

[Papa Jack]

Looks like the one, ThankYou. My next question is, is there a 36v model? If not that might be part of the problem.

[JohnnieB]

Here is the schematic for the 36V version, but it is same except the number of batteries.

Does solenoid click?
If so, are you getting the 6.6V on the controller side of the solenoid after the solenoid clicks?

Actually, with the resistor installed between the solenoid's two large terminals, you ought to get pretty close to battery pack voltage before the solenoid clicks, so check the voltage between the main negative terminal on battery pack and B- terminal on controller. (A bad B- cable is about the only thing I can think of that will give you the 6.6V reading without smoke being visible. )

Also, the small wire on the fourth 1/4" push-on connector ought to go to the Reverse microswitch. (Orange wire = 1/2 speed reverse)

[Papa Jack]

Thanks for the schematic. Solenoid doesn't click, I have 6.6 on controller side when I hook up battery cable, no smoke just hot resistor. Solenoid and resistor are new. I'll check cable to B-.

[yurtle]

Series carts have two circuits; one that causes the solenoid to click, and consists of low current wires, microswitches, key switch, reed switch; the other consists of high current cables. Don't focus on the cables until you can get the solenoid to click.

I prefer this schematic, though that's just personal preference. Don't get hung up on the added fuses and diode.

[JohnnieB]

@ yurtle: I agree about the two circuits, but there is one commonality. After one side of the solenoid coil get B+ through all the switches, the other side gets B- from the B- terminal on the controller, and the B- terminal on the controller gets B- via a high current cable from the main negative terminal on the battery pack and that is the cable I asked to be checked.

@ Papa Jack: The solenoid not clicking and the resistor getting hot changes things, but I'd still check the B- cable for a voltage drop.

Get the low current circuit working (solenoid clicking when pedal is pushed) and if it still doesn't work, we can troubleshoot from there.

[Papa Jack]

The drawing shows a wire from bat + to ms2. what I have is a wire going to charger receptacle with some doodad in between

[Papa Jack]

sorry about pic.size

[scottyb]

The charge receptacle is the B+ source but = it should go to the F&R ms on the driver's side then to the key switch then to the pedal box and only THEN to the solenoid - I checked
The doodad is a reed switch, if it's bad it can be bypassed with minor consequence.