Need help understanding a little wiring

[hunter99]

I am looking to install a kill switch on my Club Car. I realize they are limited but it's more for a deterrent than anything.

Anyway, I have took out several switches, including heavy duty toggle switches. Looking at the wiring diagram, it appears that the tow/run switch gets 48v across it when active. Is this correct? If so, any reason I cannot just order a replacement switch and use it for the kill switch? Would it be better to have it on the power (green) side or the switched (blue) side?

As a disclosure, I can follow a wiring diagram and do basic electrical. I just am not the best at setting something up from scratch. Please bear with me. Thanks

Just to clarify, I did dig through a lot of old threads on this but they were not 100% clear to me and usually drifted into a custom solution someone is doing. Those look great but I need more info. I was actually looking at buying the RFID starter disable on fleabay but need understanding on how to wire the relay with 48v if I go that route.

[Htownblue]

So you have options. Dependent upon the source wire you’re choosing to make your kill wire (interupting it with an inline switch), will determine the type or amperage / voltage capacity type switch you should use.

Let me tell you what I do. And maybe it’s an idea. So I take the 48v feed wire that attaches to the key switch in back. I connect said 48v source wire to a wire running to my kill switch. Then a wire running back to the key switch attached to the source voltage connection on key switch. 14 or 12 gauge is plenty thick wire. I use a 30amp capable switch which is plenty of over kill as there is not an amperage draw on that switch.

Hide the kill switch. And even if the key is on, or a screwdriver is used, the voltage won’t reach the OBC / controller without the kill switch flipped.

[hunter99]

htownblue, That is exactly what I am doing. Thanks, I appreciate it. I just found specs of the heavy duty toggle I bought. 250AC 20A, but the problem is I just found out it was only rated to 30V DC, go figure.

Looking at it, and your mention of a 30A switch, i'll just grab a tow/run switch and use that once the ones I have seen meet the 30A spec. I know I wasn't;t crazy, we'll other than what the wife says I am lol, but trying to meet something to handle the 48V was a pain.

Anyway, thanks again.