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Old 12-24-2018, 03:37 PM   #11
Mikeha
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Default Re: 06 club car solenoid clicks but cart doesn’t move

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Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever View Post
Oh boy, we are drilling down. Now test the MCOR signal like this (so we can make sure it is telling the controller to do something): Run/Tow switch in Run; place the black (–) probe on packs main Negative post and the red (+) probe on the yellow wire at the 3-pin connector near the MCOR (or yellow wire at the harness if easier). The reading should be approximately ~0.32vdc to .5vdc with the pedal up. Slowly press the Go Pedal and the readings should increase until it reaches ~4.65vdc to 5vdc when the pedal is fully pressed.
Not sure what yellow wire you are speaking of. There is a yellow wire on a multi pin connector and a yellow with black stripe on a 4 pin connector. Both of these plugs are on the controller ( Curtis black box).
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Old 12-24-2018, 04:32 PM   #12
Mikeha
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Default Re: 06 club car solenoid clicks but cart doesn’t move

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Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever View Post
Oh boy, we are drilling down. Now test the MCOR signal like this (so we can make sure it is telling the controller to do something): Run/Tow switch in Run; place the black (–) probe on packs main Negative post and the red (+) probe on the yellow wire at the 3-pin connector near the MCOR (or yellow wire at the harness if easier). The reading should be approximately ~0.32vdc to .5vdc with the pedal up. Slowly press the Go Pedal and the readings should increase until it reaches ~4.65vdc to 5vdc when the pedal is fully pressed.
With meter connected as above (yellow wire in multi pin connector) measures .341 VDC with go pedal in normal position. Voltage increases to 4.635 with pedal fully pressed.
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Old 12-24-2018, 09:26 PM   #13
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: 06 club car solenoid clicks but cart doesn’t move

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With meter connected as above (yellow wire in multi pin connector) measures .341 VDC with go pedal in normal position. Voltage increases to 4.635 with pedal fully pressed.
Ok, you have verified you have a properly operating solenoid with voltage going to the controller, you have a verified a properly operating throttle signal going to the controller, and you have verified you have no voltage coming out the controller to the motor so the controller has failed.

You can get an Alltrax XCT300 here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/a...ct-controllers which is a big step up from stock, but will let you keep all other accessories unchanged. If you were thinking of upgrading down the road and will want a motor, lift kit, bigger tires, etc., then this is the time to plan ahead and get you and XCT500 so you can tune it down for now and then turn it up as you upgrade other parts down the road.

And it could have been a coincidence when you changed the batteries, it could have been Murphy's Law, or it could have been the Cart Bug biting you in the rear wanting you to upgrade and go WILD!!
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Old 12-25-2018, 10:28 AM   #14
Mikeha
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Default Re: 06 club car solenoid clicks but cart doesn’t move

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Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever View Post
Ok, you have verified you have a properly operating solenoid with voltage going to the controller, you have a verified a properly operating throttle signal going to the controller, and you have verified you have no voltage coming out the controller to the motor so the controller has failed.

You can get an Alltrax XCT300 here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/a...ct-controllers which is a big step up from stock, but will let you keep all other accessories unchanged. If you were thinking of upgrading down the road and will want a motor, lift kit, bigger tires, etc., then this is the time to plan ahead and get you and XCT500 so you can tune it down for now and then turn it up as you upgrade other parts down the road.

And it could have been a coincidence when you changed the batteries, it could have been Murphy's Law, or it could have been the Cart Bug biting you in the rear wanting you to upgrade and go WILD!!

Ok, thanks for the help.
One question I have though. With the negative meter lead on the main - of the batteries, if I measure with the + lead on the solenoid main lugs, it reads 48 VDC on both lugs. Also measures 48vdc on the motor leads at the controller.
Is this correct?
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Old 12-25-2018, 02:03 PM   #15
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Default Re: 06 club car solenoid clicks but cart doesn’t move

If you measure from Pack Neg to Large Solenoid lugs then on the battery side lug (Red) you will get pack voltage and on the controller side lug (Yellow) you will get 1 to 1.5 volt less. When you depress the pedal the controller side will come up to pack voltage as soon as the solenoid closes. The steps in post #8 show you how to test the controller output to the motor. Since you got "0" volts, that demonstrates the controller is not responding to the the throttle signal and providing the required output.

I was pretty sure that was the case in your first post when you said the resistor was heating up. That is usually a sure indicator of a controller failure as it is overloading the pre-charge resistor and heating it up. I did not want to assume anything until we checked it out. If you forgot to place it in "Tow" before changing the batteries, that could have gotten you. A spark of any kind at or around the controller could have done it, or it was simply Murphy's Law and it was coincidental....
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Old 12-25-2018, 07:44 PM   #16
Mikeha
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Default Re: 06 club car solenoid clicks but cart doesn’t move

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Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever View Post
If you measure from Pack Neg to Large Solenoid lugs then on the battery side lug (Red) you will get pack voltage and on the controller side lug (Yellow) you will get 1 to 1.5 volt less. When you depress the pedal the controller side will come up to pack voltage as soon as the solenoid closes. The steps in post #8 show you how to test the controller output to the motor. Since you got "0" volts, that demonstrates the controller is not responding to the the throttle signal and providing the required output.

I was pretty sure that was the case in your first post when you said the resistor was heating up. That is usually a sure indicator of a controller failure as it is overloading the pre-charge resistor and heating it up. I did not want to assume anything until we checked it out. If you forgot to place it in "Tow" before changing the batteries, that could have gotten you. A spark of any kind at or around the controller could have done it, or it was simply Murphy's Law and it was coincidental....
Ok, Just thought there wouldn’t be voltage on both lugs of the solenoid until it closed.
The switch was in tow when I changed the batteries, so guess it was just luck of the draw, bad luck at that.
Thanks again for the help, appreciate it.
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Old 12-25-2018, 08:10 PM   #17
PJay
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Default Re: 06 club car solenoid clicks but cart doesn’t move

Hey Nole, Would his stock controller be the same as mine that I took out of my 2004 CC Precedent? He can have it just pay shipping if it would work for him?

PJay
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Old 12-25-2018, 08:17 PM   #18
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Default Re: 06 club car solenoid clicks but cart doesn’t move

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Hey Nole, Would his stock controller be the same as mine that I took out of my 2004 CC Precedent? He can have it just pay shipping if it would work for him?

PJay
Yes, it should be the same Curtis IQ controller as your OEM was.
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Old 12-25-2018, 08:24 PM   #19
PJay
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Default Re: 06 club car solenoid clicks but cart doesn’t move

Mikeha, I got a stock controller if you want it... just pay shipping? zip 44030.
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Old 12-25-2018, 10:17 PM   #20
Mikeha
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Default Re: 06 club car solenoid clicks but cart doesn’t move

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Mikeha, I got a stock controller if you want it... just pay shipping? zip 44030.
That would be awesome. Where are you located?
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