Club Car 850 XRT 2015 runs slow in forward

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Are tony.loyola and Carts4you the same user or are we mixing threads?

As long as the reverse buzzer sounds when the FNR is on reverse, the motor wiring is correct (what WalterM6 was trying to verify).

Are You plugging the scanner on the dash or directly on the Controller 4-pin connector?

Do you have the controller model?

Yes. Same person. Tony.loyola is from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Would need to verify the reverse buzzer but the motor wiring has not been worked on. The car just suddenly started running slow in forward. We have connected the handheld both at dash and controller. The controller is model 1510A-5251.

[Sergio]

Cool, that is a standard IQ Controller so even a speed magnet would have worked.

As long as Controller Pin #16 has power when the FNR is on Reverse (Pin #8 is Forward) , that is all good.

The other common cause for the 50% power (limp mode) is a stuck Solenoid, meaning the contacts don't release once it gets hot.

Since that Solenoid is not located on a easy to test location, You can get the same reading from the Motor Terminal A1.

First make sure the Motor Terminal A1 is the one connected to Controller B+

The voltage on that motor terminal should always be a couple of volts less than pack voltage when the pedal is UP.

If the voltage reading on that motor terminal is the same as pack voltage, the Solenoid contacts are not releasing and the controller will go into limp mode when you try to run.

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Cool, that is a standard IQ Controller so even a speed magnet would have worked.

As long as Controller Pin #16 has power when the FNR is on Reverse (Pin #8 is Forward) , that is all good.

The other common cause for the 50% power (limp mode) is a stuck Solenoid, meaning the contacts don't release once it gets hot.

Since that Solenoid is not located on a easy to test location, You can get the same reading from the Motor Terminal A1.

First make sure the Motor Terminal A1 is the one connected to Controller B+

The voltage on that motor terminal should always be a couple of volts less than pack voltage when the pedal is UP.

If the voltage reading on that motor terminal is the same as pack voltage, the Solenoid contacts are not releasing and the controller will go into limp mode when you try to run.

Thanks Sergio. We had tested the solenoid previously by removing the resistor and also cables from one terminal and tested for continuity which we did not have any.

After testing voltage at A1 in motor with BMN we get 52.20 and BPV is 52.74. Let me know. Thanks .

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Carts4you

Thanks Sergio. We had tested the solenoid previously by removing the resistor and also cables from one terminal and tested for continuity which we did not have any.

If the cart always runs in limp mode, even the very first time You use, then definitely not the Solenoid.

If the voltage directly on Controller Pin #14 (light green) was varying from 0-5v as you turned the wheel and no resistance or buzzer was happening, it appears the issue is with the Controller itself.

Edit:

After testing voltage at A1 in motor with BMN we get 52.20 and BPV is 52.74. Let me know. Thanks .

That voltage is really close, what is the value of the pre-charge resistor you are using?

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If the cart always runs in limp mode, even the very first time You use, then definitely not the Solenoid.

If the voltage directly on Controller Pin #14 (light green) was varying from 0-5v as you turned the wheel and no resistance or buzzer was happening, it appears the issue is with the Controller itself.

Edit:


That voltage is really close, what is the value of the pre-charge resistor you are using?

Yes. We tested the speed sensor green cable at both sides (motor side & controller side) back probing for voltages. We got voltages ranging from 0vdc to 4.9 vdc as we turned the wheel. So it all points at being a controller failure at this point correct?

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Carts4you

Yes. We tested the speed sensor green cable at both sides (motor side & controller side) back probing for voltages. We got voltages ranging from 0vdc to 4.9 vdc as we turned the wheel. So it all points at being a controller failure at this point correct?

Correct, if the voltage on Pin #14 was varying from 0-5v, the Controller has power on Pin #9 and the motor did not offer resistance, the controller failed.

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Correct, if the voltage on Pin #14 was varying from 0-5v, the Controller has power on Pin #9 and the motor did not offer resistance, the controller failed.

Should I test voltage at pin 14? or by measuring the voltage at speed sensor connector I should be fine?

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Carts4you

Should I test voltage at pin 14? or by measuring the voltage at speed sensor connector I should be fine?

I though You said you tested at both sides, pin #14 is the green wire on the Controller side.

Since the 5v on that wire is provided by the controller itself, if You measured 5v at the speed sensor then the wire from the controller all the way to the sensor is fine.

Just make sure Pin #9 (gray wire) has pack voltage since there is the aux power used for the "run away" brake that is activated when the controller senses the motor turning by itself.

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I though You said you tested at both sides, pin #14 is the green wire on the Controller side.

Since the 5v on that wire is provided by the controller itself, if You measured 5v at the speed sensor then the wire from the controller all the way to the sensor is fine.

Just make sure Pin #9 (gray wire) has pack voltage since there is the aux power used for the "run away" brake that is activated when the controller senses the motor turning by itself.

Yes. I tested at both sides of the speed sensor plug. So the 5 volts is coming from controller and is working properly. I will check the gray wire for voltage. The voltage should read without car moving or activated correct? Do we have to go to controller wire or can we test further down from controller at another point?

If we get battery back voltage, we understand the controller is what is failed? The car does not slow as it is moved without activating on forward or reverse and reverse buzzer does not sound.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Carts4you

Yes. I tested at both sides of the speed sensor plug. So the 5 volts is coming from controller and is working properly. I will check the gray wire for voltage. The voltage should read without car moving or activated correct? Do we have to go to controller wire or can we test further down from controller at another point?

The power to pin #9 is routed through the harness and it should be available anytime the Tow/Run is on Run.

You may have a diode in that harness inline with that wire so it is worth making sure there is power on that pin #9.