2003 Club Car DS runs Intermittently

[wmacree0807]

2003 Club Car DS will take off then will just stop running completely. When it quits running the Solenoid does not click. Tested forward reverse toggle switch and it checks out. The reverse buzzer will not sound when it quits running as well. Not sure what to check. Thanks for any help.

[NoleFan4Ever]

That sounds like a controller going out. When it quits can you check/test the solenoid inputs and see what is missing? I can tell you how if you do not know. The other thing is we can test some pins on the controller. (The reverse buzzer not sounding is usually a tell-tale!)

[wmacree0807]

What should the Solenoid be reading on each post?

[wmacree0807]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

That sounds like a controller going out. When it quits can you check/test the solenoid inputs and see what is missing? I can tell you how if you do not know. The other thing is we can test some pins on the controller. (The reverse buzzer not sounding is usually a tell-tale!)

How should I check the Solenoid?

[NoleFan4Ever]

(Cart jacked up, key On, rocker switch in Fwd, and Go pedal depressed)
At the solenoid small posts do the following:
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Pos Input. Check the Run/Tow switch and the Key switch for this permissive)
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Neg input)

[wmacree0807]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

(Cart jacked up, key On, rocker switch in Fwd, and Go pedal depressed)
At the solenoid small posts do the following:
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Pos Input. Check the Run/Tow switch and the Key switch for this permissive)
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Neg input)

Okay, when Cart stopped running I was getting zero volts to the blue wire with the leads correct , and then .3 volts on the blue/white wire with the leads correct.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Then your problem lies in your key switch or Run/Tow switch. You need to go back and check the wires at both when you lose power to the Blue wire. It (power) comes from the hot side of the solenoid, thru the Run/Tow switch, thru the key switch, then to the solenoid small post via the Blue wire. There are three (3) sonic welds in-between. (Still may have a controller issue but we have to eliminate the problems to determine)

See the attached drawing as a reference.

[wmacree0807]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Then your problem lies in your key switch or Run/Tow switch. You need to go back and check the wires at both when you lose power to the Blue wire. It (power) comes from the hot side of the solenoid, thru the Run/Tow switch, thru the key switch, then to the solenoid small post via the Blue wire. There are three (3) sonic welds in-between. (Still may have a controller issue but we have to eliminate the problems to determine)

See the attached drawing as a reference.

Went out there to test those two and it ran like crazy. Ran for about 15 minutes no problem. I’ll try again here in a bit and see if it acts up again. I’ll give you an update then.