winding secondary clutch spring

[lady bug]

i replaced my secondary with a hd (red) spring and i lost about 5 mph off my top end wasn't happy with the speed loss for the very small amount of torque gained. switch back to the old spring and i am confused on what holes to put the spring tabs in and how many revaluations should i make with the clutch sheathe till it is wound up properly. i have tried to wind it up once now and found that when i put it in reverse it slams to a stop and will kill the engine but some times it will take off fine i also sometimes here a slight cherp when i take off im wondering if i don't have the sheathe advanced into the helix /shoe ramps and there binding up on each other. i still have the 24 mph that i had with the stock spring installed when i purchased the cart.but don't want any more abrupt stops in reverse or be loosing any power that could be there. any help will be appreciated

[BigBlockMan]

Original setting was B-4 clutch is rotated 1/3 turn in the direction to wind the spring tighter (clockwise when looking through drivers side wheel well.)

[z4lunch]

Steve here... the secondary on a cart is no different than a sled.
The long and the short. If you just tighten up the secondary spring it will give you more low end because it prevents the clutches from shifting. The cart will act like its stuck in first gear.
Back when I drag raced sleds... The ticket (for me)was to run the heaviest set of weights in the primary and a high enough rate primary spring to keep the motor in the power band(2 cycle). The secondary had a very aggressive cam for a quick shift out for acceleration but not for any kind of backshift(downshift).We would run only enough secondary spring tension to keep the belt from slipping and getting sucked down into the secondary which would create a huge bog. When everything was right. The sled would leave the line instantly climb to 10200rpm and the clutches would shift out. 80mph on grass in 750 feet(29 years ago)
my 2 cents
Steve

[lady bug]

thanks a lot and i will try that let you guys know what happens

[sho305]

A G1 2 stroke does not wind, but all the others you do 120 degrees (1/3 turn). Best to look at the wear marks for what holes to use, but really it does not matter if its off some...they just allow 110 or 130 degrees for example they are each a little off. I set mine with low pressure and ground the end of the ramps down a little, then I ran it wot and tightened the tension cable until I lost top end and backed it off a little....all with a new belt. It worked nice. Only thing I would say is the engine is air cooled so I wonder about that when I run it hard though I am usually going faster and shifted out, so it revs some anyway. More rpm equals cooling. But now if I go slow it is very quiet I can sneak around. Also when I had it wound tight it took a lot more gas, stayed revved all the time. With the end of the ramps ground a little (be careful doing that) it downshifts more under about 5mph, it is ideal for pulling trailers and stuff it gets more rpm with a load then returns to normal above 5mph. Empty it does not do it that much.

[lady bug]

thanks so much every body got it wound and working well

[sho305]

I should add, you might try a yamahauler spring, they are heavier than the stock one and they made a hauler for near every model cart. I was once told they help without going to the huge aftermarket one. I plan on getting one and a cut sheave.