36 Volt EZ Go doesn't run....

ok lets do a motor test

jack up rear of cart

S1= F1
S2 = F2


YOU CAN USE JUMPER CABLES
AND CLAMP TO A1 AND TOUCH BATTERY GROUND
DO NOT RUN VERY FAST JUST TO SEE IF MOTOR IS GOOD

[JohnnieB]

Warning: There is no front bearing on the motor, so the output shaft is free-floating and the motor may self destruct if motor is run as shown.

Also, that test is for a series motor and you have a sepex motor, so it might not work.

Sepex stands for SEParately EXcited, and are sometimes referred to as Shunt or Parallel wound.

In a Series wound motor, the Armature and Field windings (aka Stator) have roughly the same DC resistance when stalled and the same dynamic impedance with the armature is spinning, so the applied voltage is evenly divided between the two sets of windings connected in series. So the test set-up is roughly the same set-up used in actual operation.

In a Sepex motor the the DC resistance a stalled armature is relatively low (IE: <0.1 Ohm) and the DC resistance of the Field winding is relatively high (IE: ~5 Ohms), so when connected in series to a single source as shown, most of the voltage drops across the Field windings and there may not be enough current flow through the armature to generate enough torque to turn the shaft.

If the motor spins with this set-up it is good, but if it doesn't, it still might be good because the test does not simulate actual operating conditions.

This is how to test a Sepex motor. (Note: They only use 6V or 12 is used.)
http://www.empinc.biz/tech_support.p...ntroller_shunt

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However, testing the motor is about troubleshooting step 10 and you are at step 2.

The solenoid clocks when you push the pedal, so the problem is in the high current circuit. (Circuits actually, there are two of them in a Sepex system)

Attach your DVM between the B- and A1 terminals on the controller.
You should read FULL battery pack voltage when the pedal is pushed just far enough for the solenoid to click.
If you don't there is a open somewhere in circuit highlighted in Red and Blue on attached schematic. (The circuit highlighted in purple is the Field current circuit, which we will check later if need be)

If you do get FULL battery pack voltage, push the pedal to the floor.
The voltage should decrease to zero.

If not, the throttle input to the controller is bad, or the controller is bad.
--------
If those voltage are correct, measure between the F1 & F2 studs on motor.
With pedal on floor, you should read 2.7V.
---------

Let us know what you find.

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Warning: There is no front bearing on the motor, so the output shaft is free-floating and the motor may self destruct if motor is run as shown.

are you saying that the motor installed in a cart has no bearing ?

the photo was for hook up example only .. i guess i will have to do one with the dif and axles in photo

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

This is how to test a Sepex motor. (Note: They only use 6V or 12 is used.)
http://www.empinc.biz/tech_support.p...ntroller_shunt

Originally Posted by Rev Mejias

I replaced the Speed Controller and solenoid less than 5 months ago on our EZ GO Model: TXTPDS DATE CODE: E2205

Originally Posted by Tech Support

Low Voltage Motor Check for Shunt, Separately Excited, REGEN, DCS, PDS, IQ Type Cars (no controller)

he has a controller will that test still work ?

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by crash test dummy

are you saying that the motor installed in a cart has no bearing ?

the photo was for hook up example only .. i guess i will have to do one with the dif and axles in photo

Motor has only one bearing, while most "non-buggy" motors have two. The "other" bearing is the rear-end.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by crash test dummy

1. are you saying that the motor installed in a cart has no bearing ?

2. the photo was for hook up example only .. i guess i will have to do one with the dif and axles in photo

Originally Posted by crash test dummy

3. he has a controller will that test still work ?

1. Whether installed or not, the motor does not have a front bearing, however when installed in a cart, the bearings on the differential's input shaft provide the support needed.

2. Not all readers are mechanically inclined and even those that are, may not be aware that both ends of the armature shaft must be held in place or bad things happen.
Showing the motor mounted or adding text to that effect would suffice, as would erasing/obscuring the open end of the motor.

3. Yes. All the cables on the motor are removed, so whether a controller exists or not doesn't influence the test.

Low Voltage Motor Check for Shunt, Separately Excited, REGEN, DCS, PDS, IQ Type Cars (no controller)

1. Turn car off, remove key, jack up car so rear wheels are off ground.
2. Carefully remove all cabling from motor. It's always a good idea to mark where each cable was connected to motor.
3. Connect a couple of jumpers on motor as shown in Fig. A. (Actual terminal locations may vary slightly.
4. Bring power from one of the batteries as shown in Fig B.
5. Make/Break connection should be at location shown in Fig B. A small spark is expected each time you open the connection, so breaking connection at location shown prevents damage to battery or motor terminals.

NOTE - Speed is expected to be low. Don't be alarmed!

[yurtle]

By carefully, he means use two wrenches or one wrench and a socket. Also, do this on jack stands.

is this correct then ?

[scottyb]

Best to use a safe battery disconnect switch as shown in this pic. The final connection will spark and pit the terminal you connect last otherwise..... You are welcome to save, copy, or stickie my diagram.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by crash test dummy

is this correct then ?

The arrow is pointing towards the rear of cart rather than the front.